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I am SOOO pleased to hear a fellow landy owner went out of their way for another.... I have one waiting for me!.... Just got to get back down south to h/a then a trip across the border.THANK U GARY. So chuffed! Ps for those who are looking at drilling their bars call motozone and ask for a series 1 fairlead.... No need to drill...
or just drill the fairlead 30mm or so lower like i did instead of drilling the barQuote:
Originally Posted by twodoors
No probs James.Winch sitting here for when you get a chance to hop the border
Gary
Fyi. There are still aldi winches in ballina. About 5 left.
-Jarrod.
Just as an update to this - I fitted my Aldi winch to a TJM winch bar several weeks ago, and over the last week has had it's first use in anger. Not for what you might think as normal use, but it has been used at least.
First impression - it has hell of a lot of pull in it. It was being used to pull dead trees and logs around (my D1 gets used almost as a tractor on our property), as well as pulling some huge lantana bushes out at the roots.
At no point did it look like it was struggling........at one point there was one dead tree it was pulling that snagged on an old stump, when it quite happily dragged the D1 (in Park with handbrake on) towards it instead.
That's not to say that the winch is perfect -there was some damage. The fairlead has a cast steel surrounding on it, and mine snapped. So if you get one of these in the box, you may be better swapping it out for one of the plate steel variety instead.
the aldi winches are now intermittant for being able to rotate the clutch housing, the end cap can be rotated some now do not have the 4 dowel positions for mounting the gearbox casing to the winch frame so without modification you may not be able to rotate the housing.
However. Drilling the casing to accept the dowels is not a complicated nor super accurate (but its better if you are) matter.
Finally finished fitting my winch on my truck this aftternoon. It fiited to the Disco 3 ARB bar with the following (minor) mods.
Longer bolts for the fairlead
Drill two holes for the middle bolts on the fairlead to mount to the bar
Rotate the gearbox to allow the clutch lever to operate.
Cut the round knob off the clutch lever to allow it to operate ( I added about 1" of rubber fuel line on the end of the lever just to give a little more leverage but you could get fancier or notch the inside of the bullbar to allow the lever to move freely.)
Make up two brackets to mount the control box on the top of the bar.
I did NOT have to remove the bar, I just used a trolley jack to lift the winch up into position after removing the bottom plate.
I added one of these switches under the bonnet to disable the winch when not in use, terminated the winch lead to the switch and used an 18" battery lead from the battery to the switch. I had to reterminate the battery lead as the connectors would not go through the switch housing.
All seems to work well. I noticed that the winch is generously lubricated with black graphite stlye grease so I did not regrease it.
I'll report back once it's been used in anger.
Regards,
Tote
Sorry to change subject, but are the RUNVA brand of winch any good? These are the cheapest I've seen the 12000lbs go for $450, or any 12000lb go for. Could be OK for when the warn bites the dust.
Pinnacle Wholesalers - 12000 Lbs Winch With Remote Control - 4WD WINCHES
61 KG!!!!!!!
Regards Philip A
Runva are touted as being very good so for $450 I'd snap it up if I didn't already have a superceheap/ aldi one mounted. BTW, the supercheap winch successfully dragged my def along on its diffs without any fuss, although the remote was a bit dodgy to strhart with; turned out to be the rocker switch contacts so all is good now :)