Thread: Winch power isolator or not

As usual AULRO advice has been fantastic. Thanks all. Used the link from DeanoH. Went for a 61082BL as I am a chicken to put my dual batteries into the single circut as he has. It was tempting

Originally Posted by weakestlink

As usual AULRO advice has been fantastic. Thanks all. Used the link from DeanoH. Went for a 61082BL as I am a chicken to put my dual batteries into the single circut as he has. It was tempting

A couple of points to consider.

With my setup the batterys are only connected together via the switch when it is 'on'. With the switch 'off' the batterys are isolated from each other and the winch and the existing dual battery setup takes over.
I chose to force battery coupling via the switch whilst winching to share the load accross both batterys, I have seen solenoid battery couplers destroyed through overload whilst winching as the winching current is generally too great for the solenoid.

What method of battery coupling do you use? Most people winch with the engine/alternator running which may have both batterys coupled.

Don't know if this is an issue with 'electronic battery coupler/isolators' as I've never have one. Traxide or someone knowlegable in this area will be able to answer this one, but if you're using a solenoid to connect your two batterys together half the winch current will try to travel through it and may either burn out or weld its contacts together as auto solenoids are generally not rated for these currents.

Deano

TJM make an isolator as a separate accessory to their winches.

It's just a simple rotary switch. When I inquired about the rating, they checked & advised 500 amps.

Mine's mounted behind the passengers knees in the Defender, but within reach from the driver's seat should it ever be needed.

Regards
Max P

Originally Posted by Tusker

TJM make an isolator as a separate accessory to their winches.

It's just a simple rotary switch. When I inquired about the rating, they checked & advised 500 amps.

Mine's mounted behind the passengers knees in the Defender, but within reach from the driver's seat should it ever be needed.

Regards
Max P

TJM post in the D3 section on a flat battery has been on the type you may be talking about. Love to put this topic up a seperate post if you gents don't mind as I think it is a very interesting one but a little left of the Issolator switch. I will post it after cooking the kids some tucker Thanks as usual to all

I have a Warn solenoid isolator on mine which is controlled from a indicating toggle switch in the cab. I have added the jumper lead kit, also from Warn, which has an Anderson type plug on it, wired so that it is only active when the cab switch is "on". I can use this either for a jump start, or to connect to a second battery, with the set of jumper leads that plug into the Anderson plug. I also use an AGM battery for a bit more capacity.

Originally Posted by goingbush

You MUST have a power isolator somewhere,
I use one of these
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ3NFgxMzQy/$(KGrHqZHJBwE8fT!hE8-BPPGEJ1zdQ~~60_35.JPG

look up 'winch vandals' on google

Ive heard of cases where vandals have unspooled the cable , put over the top of a car onto the tow bar, smash the relay box & set the winch going, thus squashing your roof flat or cutting your car down the middle,

Beware of using cheap isolators on a winch I have had them melt underload with bad results

Originally Posted by djam1

Beware of using cheap isolators on a winch I have had them melt underload with bad results

yes, er thanks. mine just melted
I'm changing to a solenoid style.

Having given all the above advice some thought I have isolated my winch. Takes less than one minute to unbolt the cable from the battery connector and will bolt it back on if going places that may require winch operation, again takes less than one minute.

The D2 TD5 has so little space near the battery that it would take more time to wire up an isolator than to simply bolt up if required. Only marginally more time than to pop the hood and turn an isolator switch.