sorry, i did misread.
the problem is people attaching straps to non chassis mounted recovery points, not with the actual straps.
sorry, i did misread.
the problem is people attaching straps to non chassis mounted recovery points, not with the actual straps.
Current Cars:
2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
2008 RRS, TDV8
1995 VS Clubsport
Previous Cars:
2008 ML63, V8
2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion
The stored kinetic energy generated in a snatch recovery is an unknown factor, to keep it safe the weakest link should be the snatch strap.
With most of the available tow/hitch points there is no guarantee of strength/fitness for the job, so if the hitch/tow point becomes the weakest link then people may be injured or killed.
Not likely to happen if using a winch correctly, as I said, use only as a last resort, Regards Frank.
Current Cars:
2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
2008 RRS, TDV8
1995 VS Clubsport
Previous Cars:
2008 ML63, V8
2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion
Tow , Hitch point in this post means Recovery point, Regards Frank.
Quote:"using a winch incorrectly will produce the same results."
Please explain.
BTW, you don't call those bits of flat plate with a few holes in them and bolted under the chassis about a metre back from the front of the bullbar "Recovery points", do you?
Frank, can you give an example of a recovery point you call suitable? If I go out and buy recovery points to put on my vehicle, what should I buy?
Current Cars:
2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
2008 RRS, TDV8
1995 VS Clubsport
Previous Cars:
2008 ML63, V8
2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion
An ideal recovery point would be a boxed (reinforced) end of front chassis rails with a large diameter 25mm and above threaded hole in at least 1/2" plate and welded nut (at least 25 to 30mm deep), with a castellated nut and thick hardened washer on end of thread, corresponding hole through the bull bar with a rated Collared Eye Bolt screwed into the threaded box section. Or better still a rated swivel eye bolt, if fixed eye bolt hole in bolt should be vertical to allow shackle to self align with the direction of pull.
On both sides of course.
Advantages are, no climbing under vehicle to attach recover sling/rope, vertical pin hole allows shackle to align to direction of pull, unlike chassis side plates that stress the shackles by forcing them sideways, equal load on both chassis rails, no load on bullbar and cable rope is always above the bottom of bull bar unlike underneath plates which can allow bottom of bull bar to jamb cable/rope against hard ground.
Disadvantages, not easy for the average punter to build, but anyone with tools and can oxy cut and electric weld can do the job himself, would probably need local machine shop to run a large Tap through the welded nut (for the eye bolt shaft) and through the 1/2 inch plate that the nut is welded to, BTW do this before welding in or boxing the end of chassis rails.
Hope this helps, Regards Frank.
Current Cars:
2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
2008 RRS, TDV8
1995 VS Clubsport
Previous Cars:
2008 ML63, V8
2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion
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