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Thread: Magnum 9K winch rebuild?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Looks like you are well on top of things 👍

    Give the winch a workout every couple of months, ... park on the lawn and spool out then winch in, seems to keep them happy.

  2. #12
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Gold Subscriber
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    WINCH HOOK

    I;d like to keep the existing dyneema rope as a backup/extension (may not work but always worth a try)

    The trouble is the winch hook seems to be 'permanently' mounted to the eye of the dyneema rope.

    So where modern hooks look like this - with a split pin which allows that 'rod' (for want of an accurate word) to be removed

    modern-hook.jpg

    The one I have looks as if the rod has been put in place and then peened so it can't be removed. (no split pin provision)

    I could grind it out but then would need to obtain an appropriate piece of steel to replace that rod. Something which is good in shear.


    Suggestions?
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by VladTepes View Post
    WINCH HOOK

    I;d like to keep the existing dyneema rope as a backup/extension (may not work but always worth a try)

    The trouble is the winch hook seems to be 'permanently' mounted to the eye of the dyneema rope.

    So where modern hooks look like this - with a split pin which allows that 'rod' (for want of an accurate word) to be removed

    modern-hook.jpg

    The one I have looks as if the rod has been put in place and then peened so it can't be removed. (no split pin provision)

    I could grind it out but then would need to obtain an appropriate piece of steel to replace that rod. Something which is good in shear.


    Suggestions?
    No need for hooks on a winch extension……and

    when switching to Dyneema you really want to eliminate as much steel as possible.

    I use a soft shackle to join the winch extension to the winch rope.

    My dyneema extension has an eyelet each end.

    You removed this rope as it was old and sun damaged right?? If this is the case I wouldn’t be using as winch extension.

    I personally wouldn’t be grinding/removing pins on hooks and replacing with a random piece of steel……after all you’re replacing to rope to enable safe winching.

    if you really want to save the hook I’d suggest purchasing a hammer lock to join the hook to the rope.


  4. #14
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Gold Subscriber
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    I need a hook on the end somehow, for attaching to chains for dragging stuff if needed, etc There's always a use for a hook.

    Hammer lock?

    Also what to use as snatch blocks for dyneema rope?
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Harper Creek
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    I know I’m late to the party
    But with respect to rebuild
    They are a starter motor bolted to a cage with a simple planetary box … zero rocket science

    Pull apart
    Clean
    Grease and put together


    The existing rope might be a bit shagged but when dyneema et.al. Let’s go even with a winch at stall it is pretty uneventful !

    I would cut your new rope and just spool about 15m of fresh rope on the drum - then when you pull it out you are into the strength of the winch ! Use the other 15m and the old rope as extensions …

    Can use all sorts of fancy Connections but trust me

    A bowline in heavy dyneema won’t break at even 15000lb winch on stall
    And you undo it with a pair of pliers

    Anyways

    This is me
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  6. #16
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Gold Subscriber
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    I'm trying to track down what the go is with seals/gaskets on these winches.
    As far as the main components are concerned where the bolt together I found no seals or gaskets. I'm unsure whether it was assembled without them at one point or whether that's normal.

    On the bright side the motor seems to be in good nick on the inside - no obvious damage etc.
    I'm hoping my failed test of it was flawed (maybe not making good connections on exterior lugs etc) and that the motor is actually working. Does need a clean up of the commutator a bit (emery paper will do the job its not bad).
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Encounter Bay
    Posts
    703
    If the commutator is that good, just a light touch with abrasive paper is sufficient , and don’t cut the mica grooves.

    Next thing is to head for Mt. Dare and try the little beast out😉

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