Thread: Front recovery points

Originally Posted by patclan

The inlaws are going also in their Toy, so could get embarrasing..

Yeah I can see they could get embarrassed.

Try to avoid recovering vehicles in reverse. If possible hook the pin of the tow bar through the strap.

Waz

And drop your tyre pressures to 16psi and keep some momentum in the loose sand - you'll be fine.

If you can wrap a recovery strap or whatever you might need to use (in the unlikely event that you get stuck) around the chassis, that would be best - don't try to use the tie down hooks though - they can easily give way.

Just enjoy - take a shovel too if you can.

I agree with waz i stick strap through pin in towbar sleeeve -i have a sticker above my towbar - nissan recovery point

We all know that landies don't get stuck but it is a bit daft that they don't come with recovery points fitted to the front. You might need to recover the guy in front of you without turning around.

Hi Guys,

Have seen numerous self recoveries done on sand with the MAXX TRAX and shovel, take up a bit of space and not always practical i know but less stress on the vehicle (and driver) than a snatch or winch recovery and you should be able to get a hold of them before the weekend maybe?

Also have seen (on one of the 4wd monthly vids) dropping tire pressures down super low (sub 12psi from memory) and the guy drove it out of a bogged situation on sand, mind you all he had to do was drive straight and would I be a bit worried if excessive stick was needed to get up a steep dune or the like?

I think he popped the pressures back up to plus 16 as soon as he could too.

Not a substitution for going with others but maybe an option if suitable recovery points are not available?

The "optimal" manner for a recovery point is to attach a 2.5m 16mm (25x6)wire rope sling as a bridle between the bolts attaching the radius arms to the front axle... .:: Sling Details ::.

the force path tends to lift the front wheels out of the rut (like pulling a billy cart ), rather than trying to separate the chassis from the front suspension by driving the wheels further into the bog... which if you analyse it... is what happens with a JATE ring.

attachment to the axle is simple... the existing bolts had plenty of thread left so I simply bolted BIG 3mm thick steel washer in place with an extra nut. I slip an end of the sling over each washer BEFORE I get into the rough stuff. Can do same for the rear.

Then, you simply gather the wire sling in the middle and form a loop which you fix in place with a proper u-bolt wire clamp. Use the loop to secure a rated D shackle


The sling is held off the ground when not needed using a bungee cord. If you have a bull bar, all the better for tying it off. doesn't look as "tough" as a Jate but it's just as effective/ if not more so...


I found this great idea on the web when looking in frustration for ideas about recovery points on my P38 ...it's the "science" of it which appealed! see also
Technical Review of ADR for a full explanation

Bushranger do a sand trax roll up system which is a good alternative to the maxtrax and much easier to store.

I also heard of a good idea on another forum. For a cheap alternative to maxxtrax, chop up a milk crate and loosely join the edges of 2 of the walls with tie-wire to get one track. They should fold up pretty flat.

W