Thread: "Sweetpea" joins the clan.

I wouldn't bother with the indicators Glen. I won't be on the Snowy.

Other than that, on my LWB series 1's, they already have a place on the front wings where someone has put them. About the neatest and most unobtrusive fitment to body work is small brackets coming from the bumper bolts at the dumb irons, and rear tub brackets on the rear crossmember. Choice of lens is yours. Any old period stalk on the column will look fine, or a recon series 11 one.

Sweet Pea is coming along great.

CC

Wow the old gal is looking great, i can not wait to see the landy when you have completed the resto

It was nice to see Sweetpea in the flesh last weekend.......and your good selves too

Glen

In today's traffic, and while Land Rovers never fail to proceed I think indicators and hazard lamps are essential.

Given the age of the vehicle, you would be permitted to use white front indicator lamps, but with the firewall mounted lamps of the early 80" this is a bit problematic as you can't get two pole globes for the holder.

A lot of people use motor cycle indicator lamp fittings bracketed off the front bumper and off the body mounts or handles on the rear. This way you don't have to drill holes in the body work.

Diana

ZD has been really quiet lately


so I shall post what has happened to sweetpea in the last few weeks she has been here













Mrs hh

Looking good!

Although, 1600 engines weren't duck egg blue!

Diana

Thats not duck egg blue it is more baby blue

Mrs hh

P.S. interesting that's all saw in those pics

Mrs hh

Originally Posted by JDNSW

A further improvement can be made by fitting a headlight relay. This, quite conveniently, can be mounted behind the grille and where it is both accessible and invisible. Makes a big difference.

...Assuming that you are retaining the original generator, you need to be careful about the wattage bulbs you are using - 55w bulbs are about 25% above the originals - ... ... Even with the original 45W bulbs prolonged night driving in traffic will see the battery gradually losing charge.

Knowing the reliability of the original headlamp dip switch, which can fail unexpectedly leaving you with a whole lot of dark, if you are going to fit a relay, use a change over relay with normally closed on low beam and use the main beam wire on the dip switch to activate the hig beam filament on the headlamps. That way if the dip switch fails in either position, you will still have low beam. A small relay mounted adjacent the junction box behind the steering column is convenient for picking up all the required wires.

Be aware. If you do use a relay in this configuration, the headlamp switch still carries the low beam current unless you have a low beam relay as well.

John - are you sure the original 12V BPF bulbs were only 45W, while it's not a lot but I thought the originals were 50W/40W (but I guess that averages to 45W)