just remember the water pump I showed you. That was done by 2 persons who have had the same official training that every mechanic in the ADF gets before they get let loose in the real world to do their log book.
I dont reckon you're doing so bad.
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If it makes you feel any better Scallops; I once fitted a brand new clutch to my Morris Minor, after re-ringing the engine and changing the bearings. During the re-build of the engine, it turned by hand quite easily - I checked after installing each piston in case I had made a mistake. For some reason when I put the flywheel on, it didn't seem to want to turn as well anymore but I put it down to the friction of the new rings and pressed-on, instead of trying to work out why.
By the time the engine was bolted to the gearbox not even the starting handle could turn the engine; from this I deduced a tow start would be needed. My cobber arrived in his S3 and we hooked up the tow rope; after about 20m there was a jerk and everything seemed to free-up except that letting out the clutch in gear didn't seem to be doing much good. Suddenly there was the ghastly smell of burnt clutch lining and I parped furiously to get him to stop. He towed me home in a cloud of smoke :(
A strip down the next day showed that the flywheel ring gear was only partially on - and had been for years by the look of it - and for some reason it had decided to jam against the housing around the flywheel! I knocked it back on with a club hammer, whilst I contemplated the ruins of a perfectly good, brand-new driven plate. At least it taught me to critically examine every flywheel I ever met since then :)
Good luck with the S1, we have all been there,
Cheers Charlie
A long time ago I decided my L300 needed new rings, and I thought I can do this,, so it all got pulled apart, new rings and bearings installed and everything disappeared back into the motor quite nicely,,
but the starter wouldn't turn it over,,
neither would the roll down the drive,
and neither would the roll from Menai down to Woronora!! (Bushie where are you?)
I know now that bearing caps have to go back on in a certain way:angel::angel: ( I was at least consistent,, they were ALL wrong:p) and new valve guides (valve guide?? what was a valve guide?)would probably have been a good idea too someone said afterwoods.
The car ran faultlessly till I sold it after I fixed it properly.
Matilda doesn't deserve a better owner,, she's knows she's got the right one,, its the owner that doesn't realise it yet--
Another question - after rebuilding the water pump with original parts, Dave has said it's not right as it's too stiff (who would have thought :wallbash:). How many times can these parts be re - pressed into the pump? Is it any number of times or will it become too loose?
Not sure what you mean .... But the bearing itself can become loose in the housing ,the alloy housings are softer and more prone to this . I've seen one where they had to machine up a sleeve to take up the slack.
You can use loctite to hold it in if its not too loose... works fine .
MIKE
I was asking this - as the impeller is pressed onto the bearing, if it is removed to check/redo the pump rebuild, will it still be tight enough when it is re pressed onto the bearing?
Ah OK .
I think it would become loose if you pressed the impleller on and off four or five times . But again , you can use some Loctite if it becomes a little loose . Loctite is great stuff, it comes in various strengths and grades , but it isn't cheap, it's around $20 for a small bottle . You can buy it just about anywhere - I've used it for years, never had a single failure with it ..used it on shafts, pulleys and all sorts of highly stressed gadgets . Only problem is , if you want to remove the part, you have to heat it up to loosen the hold of the loctite
MIKE