my 80" R06102728 Paint Scheme

In 1998 when I sprayed my 86 Dulux where still in auto paints, a local guy used the original Dupont codes and the result was as close as any Rover paint job.
My favoured reference point for original colour is under the Left hand handbrake hole cover, these covers have rarely ever been removed and the rubber seal up against the inner surface gives a pretty original colour.
The plastic shine issue is why I like to use acrylic lacquer, this is becoming harder to get.
Due to the need to buff out its shine the result is much deeper and you can stop at the required gloss level. It has in my opinion other advantages, can be sprayed in less than perfect surroundings, pretty easy to spray, very easy to repair and only just a bit toxic. Big disadvantages are the work needed to buff and not as hard as 2 packs.
Dennis

I was under the impression that all Landies (80") were painted in a satin finish rather than a gloss finish.
Regards
Glen

If your bonnet still has the original spare wheel holder, remove it and you might be lucky enough to reveal the original colour. Take this and get it col matched. Acrylic Lac seems to be the go.

yep Acrylic Lacquer is going to be the Go on my 80" and i think is one of the easiest to spray & clean up.

Chris

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Originally Posted by chris1983rangie

yep Acrylic Lacquer is going to be the Go on my 80" and i think is one of the easiest to spray & clean up.

Chris

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Acrylic lacquer is also the easiest to repair.

We have a fellow up here in Sydney who does quite amazing restorations and he only uses acrylic. He may do as many as six or seven light coats, rubbing back between each and every coat. He never uses a clear coat, where most two pak paint jobs get their shine from.

His vehicles after resto can be considered better than when they roll off the Land Rover factory floor. :) They do will all the show and shine prizes!

And from what i've heard the warmer months of the year are the better times to apply the numerous coats as they dry faster enabling the next part of the process to begin

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Originally Posted by bayrover

And from what i've heard the warmer months of the year are the better times to apply the numerous coats as they dry faster enabling the next part of the process to begin

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Correct; about 25C to 30C is ideal, if it gets much hotter than that, the paint can start to dry before it hits the panel so you need to use a different thinner. Consult the paint shop they will know,

Cheers Charlie

Nice tip 25-30c Rgds

I have used some air dried enamel, which dries much quicker than the old 'Jam' that used to take most of the rest of the day to dry and remained tacky forever. I got a really good result out of it and the man in the paint shop put some stuff in to stop it being too glossy. The benefit is that the thinners is not as toxic as acrylic lacquer, you can face it if you like and it is easy to repair as well. Cheaper than Acrylic as well!

Cheers Nick.

I USED the roller gloss paint technique with one - two coats as per factory job and as long as u use a full gloss high quality roller and brush for edges i have had people say it looks origonal being not too glossy like a full respray would be with modern paint,I USED Acrylic enamel exterior gloss.Color matched to the last origonal paint out of the sun.Regards PETER.