Tristan the Tickford

As this engine has one of those rare and expensive bypass oil filters, I am going to change the oil every couple of hundred kays or so while it is still clean. This way I dont need to renew the filter.
The other alternative is what Bulletproof did and fit the spin on conversion.
This is a sensible idea if the car is going to be used a lot.
I wont waste the oil though, but use it for topping up the other engines around the place that have proper full flow filters.
Anyone see a problem in this idea?
Keith

Changing the oil sooner would keep the engine cleaner, but I'm not sure it will extend the life of the filter.

The deposits are picked up by the oil and carried to the filter, where they are strained out. The oil is still strained whether clean or dirty, the difference between the 2 is the amount of contaminate the oil can suspend and carry. The rate the filter strains the contaminates from the oil, wouldn't vary, in fact would probably increase with a constant flow of fresh oil.

Just my thoughts on it.

CC

One of my old mates (about my age) who spent his working life under motors of this vintage tells me that this particular type of bypass filtration that was fitted to many early engines was proven to be only about 5% efficient and that it was fairly common practice to close off the entry and exit pipes by inserting a rivet head in each pipe.
The recommended oil change of 3000miles (around 5000km) shows very little difference with the bypass system fitted or not, and the filter itself only had a recommended 9000mile life span. Any more modern system of paper element whether spin on or not would have to be an improvement.
Conversely though, I suppose, this engine has lasted this long with this filtration system on it so it can't really be that bad, after all, 60 odd years is a bit longer than I expect my more modern common rail diesel of today to last!!
Is there still a source of these old AC pressure filters locally?
I am pondering this same question myself whilst still at the engine reassembly point with the motor out and easily accessible. Will be interested in your final decision.
Regards
Glen

Thanks CC. With a full flow I could understand that. These ZS1 bypass filters only filter a tiny, tiny fraction of the oil so most solids would stay in suspension, then drop the oil hot. Let it settle before reusing.
Keith

[QUOTE=zulu Delta 534;1583284]One of my old mates (about my age) who spent his working life under motors of this vintage tells me that this particular type of bypass filtration that was fitted to many early engines was proven to be only about 5% efficient and that it was fairly common practice to close off the entry and exit pipes by inserting a rivet head in each pipe.
The recommended oil change of 3000miles (around 5000km) shows very little difference with the bypass system fitted or not, and the filter itself only had a recommended 9000mile life span. Any more modern system of paper element whether spin on or not would have to be an improvement.
Conversely though, I suppose, this engine has lasted this long with this filtration system on it so it can't really be that bad, after all, 60 odd years is a bit longer than I expect my more modern common rail diesel of today to last!!
Is there still a source of these old AC pressure filters locally?


I had no new filters for ages and cut up a used one to convert to a concealed spin on then found a couple at a Toowoomba swap a few years ago. Put one on Tristan and am keeping the other for next years project.
They dont seem to be available commercially any more.
Haunt swap meets

It's probably one of those times where practicality over-rules originality.

Depending on how much and how you plan to use Tristan. Occasional trips and displays, probably leave the original filter and shorten up your changes as you said, but if you plan to use it more, I would look to do the same as Bulletproof did on his 80".

CC

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 123rover50

As this engine has one of those rare and expensive bypass oil filters,

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Has anyone ever tried "reverse flushing" them? In theory could work, once you work out inlet & outlet! And also upside down, on a really hot day, or a hot water bath? I have noticed before that some really old used ones are much heavier than new.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zulu Delta 534

One of my old mates (about my age) who spent his working life under motors of this vintage tells me that this particular type of bypass filtration that was fitted to many early engines was proven to be only about 5% efficient and that it was fairly common practice to close off the entry and exit pipes by inserting a rivet head in each pipe.
The recommended oil change of 3000miles (around 5000km) shows very little difference with the bypass system fitted or not, and the filter itself only had a recommended 9000mile life span. Any more modern system of paper element whether spin on or not would have to be an improvement.
Conversely though, I suppose, this engine has lasted this long with this filtration system on it so it can't really be that bad, after all, 60 odd years is a bit longer than I expect my more modern common rail diesel of today to last!!
Is there still a source of these old AC pressure filters locally?
I am pondering this same question myself whilst still at the engine reassembly point with the motor out and easily accessible. Will be interested in your final decision.
Regards
Glen

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My understanding was that the bypass filter was actually much better at filtering but the disadvantage was that it only filtered a small percentage of the oil at a time.
With a full flow you have to pass all the oil flow through it so the pore size has to be larger so that you don't reduce the flow too much. The bypass filter was supposedly a much finer filter because it only filtered a small percentage of the oil.

It's interesting that you can still buy bypass filters to fit to modern vehicles (maybe another Hyclone or maybe they actually work ?) Oil Filters,Bypass Oil Filters,Bypass Oil Filter

I ran Austin Somersets in the UK with bypass filters and the motors lasted well but then I also ran a lot of British motorcycles that had no filter, just a wire gauze to catch the big bits that broke off and as long as the oil was changed regularly they lasted OK as well.
Thinking about it, did the VW Beetle have an oil filter ?

Changing the oil more frequently will help remove any contaminants but I wouldn't dismiss the old bypass filter....

http://www.alternative-energy-resour...il_filter.html
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...bypass-filters



Colin

I wonder what the possibility would be of modifying the AC canister so that it could contain, or at least camouflage, a Frantz type "toilet roll" system. It would probably mean cutting the existing canister in two so that it could be opened and reclosed to allow filter roll changes down the line.
When we had coaches running round the country, both Mercedes and Hinos, all were fitted with a "Frantz" type bypass system and it elongated our oil life considerably. With the mileages these vehicles were doing it saved us around about one 44gallon drum of oil per month, so I reckon on a S1 with such a small engine and minuscule mileage, one filter should last a couple of years!
At least the principal is similar.
Regards
glen

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zulu Delta 534

I wonder what the possibility would be of modifying the AC canister so that it could contain, or at least camouflage, a Frantz type "toilet roll" system. It would probably mean cutting the existing canister in two so that it could be opened and reclosed to allow filter roll changes down the line.
When we had coaches running round the country, both Mercedes and Hinos, all were fitted with a "Frantz" type bypass system and it elongated our oil life considerably. With the mileages these vehicles were doing it saved us around about one 44gallon drum of oil per month, so I reckon on a S1 with such a small engine and minuscule mileage, one filter should last a couple of years!
At least the principal is similar.
Regards
glen

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Glen,
I think the casing is too thin but you could make a 2 piece aluminium housing, spray it with hammer finish paint and it would look like the canister. Just need to get the dimensions of the bypass filters and work out the internal porting
It would take a couple of big bits of aluminium which could either be threaded and screwed together or have screws hidden in the underside.

I have a 1.6 bottom end (holed pistons) down the shed and it still has the canister filter fitted I'll have a look when I get a moment.


Colin