A well used 80''called Klonk

Crikey Ive fallen off the front page of the series one index its been a while since Ive done an update.
Good to see a few others posting here.

Well its been wet and windy here as well, not really shed weather at night so not much has been done.

First up Ive been dismantling a 88"S1 at the tip in the neighbouring town, poor ole girl had been in
the saltwater abit too often not much left of the chassis or bulkhead, managed to recover the 4 axel
shafts but the gearbox and diffs were worn out, victim of a holden motor.

Ive finished klonks leaf springs, the rears have two new main leaves and have made up new retainers
that hold the leaves together, also suspension bushes have been fitted to the springs and chassis. I
had to machine some of the bushes in the lathe at work to suit the 1 3/4" rear springs.Then they
were painted along with the shockies. The shockies are Munroes, the fronts are dated 7/61 and rears
7/52, they all still work fine.

Also made a start on the fuel tank repairs, the bottom has rusted out as usual, so cut out the bottom
but left a 10mm edge around the outside. Then took it to work and used the cutting torch on the oxy
set to melt the soldier and at the same time used compressed air to blow away the molten soldier.

When using this method please wear a full face visor and long sleeves etc to protect your self from
hot flying soldier and keep other people away from the area as well.

The folded edge then just lifted off. now too get another bottom bent up and soldered on.

This weekend Ive stipped the paint off the wheel rims and will soak them in mollassis to get rid of
the rust. Was going to get them sand blasted but the $300 and 6 weeks wait put me off.
The rims are from a S2a 5.5" ones, as Im going to fit 205 r 16 tyres which are better on the wider
rims so Im told.

Cheers Steve

The springs look good. Did you get that done locally?

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Originally Posted by 107gus

The springs look good. Did you get that done locally?

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No Gus I had the 2 main (top) leaves of the rear ones made in Perth by westraila springs, they made them from the measurements I sent them, they did a good job and Danielle is excellent to deal with, knows her stuff.

The springs were derusted then I made new retainers that hold the leaves in place and assembled and painted them here. The front ones were just a clean up and paint.

Cheers steve

This weekend Ive managed to finish the fuel tank, repaired the carby throttle housing shaft holes and have two wheel rims derusted and ready to paint.

To repair the tank bottom I bought an off cut of 1mm sheet steel, cut to size and marked it out and bent it over the edge of the workbench to fit, used the press at work to press in the dimple for the drain plug then bent over the side edges tinned the joints with solder and run two sticks of solder into the joints.
So now will glue the mount onto the fuel tank with sikaflex and use some PVC glue and primer to line the inside of the tank, just to be sure and then some paint.

The carbie housing was sleeved with K&S 11/32 brass tube, this has the
correct internal size for the butterfly shaft. Then I used a 11/32 drill on low speed in my drill press to drill the housing. The tube was a tight fit in the housing and was cut and trimmed once fitted. Its nice to know that my drill press is true to the table as the shaft fitted straight through rather snugly first time. The next issue with the carbie is the emulsion tube holder, it is broken and the air jet was missing, I have pulled it from the housing and I will turn up a new one in brass but will have to think about that one.

Cheers Steve

Just found your thread , boy does it bring back memories of my restoration of my 1950 80" " Landy" 26 odd years ago. You are doing a top job. You will just have to watch the powder coating as it is porous so water can get through the paint & cause rust under the coating with out you knowing. The powder coaters can put a zinc primer under the pawder caoting to pervent this .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 1950landy

You will just have to watch the powder coating as it is porous so water can get through the paint & cause rust under the coating with out you knowing. The powder coaters can put a zinc primer under the pawder caoting to pervent this .

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Thanks I didn't know about that, but I know he did put the zinc primer on . Was going to put gaters on them as well for protection.

Steve

Well abit more done, Fuel tank mount glued on, PVC glue sealer put inside of the tank and the outside painted. Two wheel rims also undercoated and the others are half done in the mollassis. Second hand shackel bolts and plates were aquired from another 80'' owner in town

Today I spent time sorting out and wire brushing the various nuts and bolts needed to fit the axel housings back together, just waiting for hub parts. Then he will be ready to put back on his feet :p. But due to the lack of space in the shed I will leave that major event untill after I have rebuilt the gearbox and sorted the engine (repair the oil leaks and paint). So off to shake the money tree to get some parts.

Cheers Steve

Hi Steve, I have just finished reading your post from the start to this point.


What an effort you have put in to date with more to come no doubt. I admire your 'Old School Craftsman' skills, not afraid to have a go at anything and trying to bring the '51' back to where it began. Thank you for the detailed explanation in so many areas.




I have been reading many S1 posts and am extremely thankful for the contributions of so many members with detailed explanations of individual overhauls, A classic example about which I have read from several members would be the vacuum advance of the dizzie, don't just look for a replacement, but rebuild it with available parts and understand it's workings.


We have only just started and it would be nice to achieve half of what you have done. When I first began I was focused on hard to get parts and not the whole job at hand which is the real challenge. I have since found that by getting stuck into things, networking amongst members and researching, things slowly fall into place, for example we have been lucky enough to pick up items such as horn / dipper switch from a Series1 Tragic and a PTO from a person who just happened to have one in his shed from when he removed it off his vehicle over 30 years ago. The PTO output was with the vehicle and the engaging switch came off a vehicle at a recent auction. Now for the PTO tailshaft (not important at this stage). I don't even have a full set of springs and hubs - could rob them off the '53' we have in the workshop, if it came to that, but we are trying to keep this complete.


There are so many others on this Forum giving us inspiration and the drive to get on with the project, getting ahead of myself at times. This will be a slow and careful, squeezing in a few hours on the project, here and there when time permits.






Erich

Hi all,
Sorry I havent been here for awhile, its comming up to grain harvest time and Ive been busy repairing air/cons in various machinery on the weekends. At one stage I had 19 machines to do, only 5 left now.This is my weekend business,on top of my normal day job,then throw in a couple of weeknight jobs at a mates workshop, I dont need any rocking to sleep, just sitting down usually does it.

Erich
Thanks for you comments, this forum has certainly given me alot of help as well, reading your post your getting along rather well.

Have managed to get sometime in klonks shed though. Ive assembled the front diff and the front hubs. The diff took some time as I had mixed up the original pinion shims with some spare diffs ive got, so without the special tool to setup the pinion it was a case of trial and error to get the teeth markings right. The hubs have railco bushes installed and the powder coating is working well, nice and slippery with oil on them.
Also had fun with the diff housing, I sat the hub onto the housing in a vertical position and found it would rock side to side. Looking at it I found one side of the flange was together and the other had a 1/2 mm gap. After using straight edges to measure and check I found that the shoulder that locates the swivel housing and clamps the axel bearing was 20 thou thicker on one side than the other. This must have been from factory as one of the swivel housing flange was badly dished indicating that it had been pulled up tight on the bolts. It took alot of filing and bluing to get it right, but its all good now.

Cheers Steve

Well awhile ago I mentioned that the was light at the end of the tunnel for klonks rebuild, well theres been a rock fall in the tunnel.

I had had the engine running for about a half hour before I started the strip down and it seemed to run not to bad, so had planed to remove the sump to clean the inside, replace other seals, gaskets etc and give it a paint job to spruce it up and run it, then overhaul it later on.

Well the sump was removed and lots of crud was found.The end result is photo one :o . Thought while I was there I would check the crank bearing clearances. I used plastiguage for this and the big ends had 4 thou clearance, but inspecting the crank I noticed a strange mark around all the big end journals, it felt like a step in the surface. So using a micrometer to measure I found there was a step of 1.5 thou from side to side(photo 2) and they are 3 thou out of round., but not in the place of normal wear for a crank. Having worked grinding crankshafts for 3 years I new it was a dodggy crank grind from the past. So it just got worse from there. Cam and followers buggerd, the first piston I pulled had a broken top ring that had gone out the top of the piston, the other 3 had broken rings. Also needs valve guides as well.

So the crank is ground to 40 thou all round and the block is 20 thou over,which is good as its the original engine for the car but maybe need another crank. I dont think there are 50 or 60 thou bearings for the 1600 motors.

So im abit depressed at the moment, thats every part of this car Ive had to repair. Was really looking forward to getting it on its feet soon. Oh well!

Cheers Steve