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Like your work Steve.
Get your mate to have another crack at Klonks name plate.To me it looks too much like Tonka font.See if you can match the original badge font,that will really impress me.
Not looking good for an Easter holiday in Albania,coins a bit short just now,plus I just found out the boss will be away for 3 weeks,and I will be on call,not happy:bat::bat::bat::bat::bat:
Andrew
Quote:
Originally Posted by LandyAndy
Hi Andy,
Thanks for that, thought It looked familiar but just couldn't put my finger on it. Unfortunately I didn't have much choice in 3d letter stickers here in town, that was the best option. Don't know of any 3d printers about town.
Shame you can't get down at Easter, there's acres from salmon about. Can't help with accomodation either at the moment, our spare room is taken by an exchange student for the next couple of months.
Cheers Steve
Send a pm to Chris,(cjc_td5).
He has a 3D printer,he just made up some glare shields at a very cheap price for D4 owners.Im sure he could print up a 3D Klonk badge for the front and back.You need to paint the finished product as its not UV stable.Our glare shields are awesome.
Introducing "LANCE"
Andrew
Quote:
Originally Posted by LandyAndy
Oh no no no no no :no2: a plastic badge :o what next, plastic grills, plastic dashes with blow up cushions in case you crash. That would be the thin edge of the wedge if you ask me.
But it would make a good mold for a sand cast metal one.
cheers Steve
If you need one cast, just let me know,
Cheers Charlie
Lots has happened in klonks shed. Unfortunately its one step forward and six backwards, I hate reworks. Everything that contained fluid seemed to be leaking.
Front and rear diff gaskets were leaking and also found the new brake cylinders were leaking, all four of them, when I removed the axels. The gearbox had three leaks, along the front output splines, transfer box cover and a mystery one between the gearbox and tranferbox which turned out to be the reverse idler shaft leaking. The gasket doesnt seal over the hole properly due to the transferbox casting not being quite big enough. Should be a warranty claim I recon.
So everything has been apart and back together again, but this time everything is permanently bolted up and all the small jobs done like the tow bar and trailer plug mounting, reflectors and seatbox fitted.
Ive made a start on the engine, the cylinder head is finished and the crank has been sent for grinding, but the bigends were worn more than I thought so now I have to find another set of shells so I know what size to grind it to.
So while waiting for things to happen Ive done some tinkering with the cylinder head. It got treated to a port and polish. Old habits die hard, couldnt help myself.
I made a manometer to measure the pressure drop through the head using a vacuum cleaner for airflow. The testing was done with the valve open 1.5mm,3mm and 6mm. After the mods there was 20% drop in the vacuum readings at all valve openings. So hope this will make some improvements in power without doing too much else to it . Just need to sort out the exaust system next.
Cheers Steve
Been a while since Ive done an update.
Klonk has been on the back burner abit this year. Daughter is in Perth at uni having trouble finding work , son is doing a school trip to Vietnam, So money is going every where except klonks shed. So the engine has not progressed much.
I have done a few jobs though, Ive made up the exaust tail pipe bracket along with the rear tub handles, these were sent to Perth along with the bumper for galvanising. I was abit disappointed with the bumper when they returned. I had repaired some rust holes in it and ground the welds flat, but after galvanising the welds were about 010thou proud of the rest, so maybe I didnt get the welds below the layer of old galve.
Ive made up a seal for the vent flap below the windscreen as the original shape rubber isnt available. I used 38x3 soft strip rubber folded over, will have to glue it in to the groove as it is poping out on the edges.The drivers side door top had been bent so have been straightend and repaired had to use a repair section made up by a mate in Perth.
The windscreen is now complete and fitted. New laminated glass with a slight green tint. I cheated assembling it, I didnt use the proper rubber strip, I didnt have any large sash clamps to squeeze it together, so I held the glass in place with small rubber blocks and screwed the frame up and then glued the glass in with sikaflex. Alot easier.
This weekend I riveted the capping on with the solid rivets. I made up some dollies and a tool for the air chisel, its brutal but quick way of riviting, no bog fell out.
That is a problem with welding up holes in steel, doesn't matter if it is already galvanized or not the weld will always take on a thicker layer of galv. The galvanizers say it is caused by silcone in the weld. When we had our welding business & the guys drilled holes in the wrong place & would weld up the holes & grind them dead flat , after galv the weld would always sit proud , even welds used to secure beaces during manufacture & had been ground off would do the same.
Its coming along nicely !
Can you give us details of the manometer please ? How you made it . Does it measure the valve seats for leakage ?
The engine builders use a vacuum pad placed onto the manifold port, and watch the gauge for the valve sealing leakage
Steve , what was the rubber you used & were did you get it. How did you manage to fold it so it would stay in shape. My rubber i fitted last time needs replacing & the co i bought it from last time are no longer in business.
Wayne