Why would they do this, when it is possible to buy a new Solex carburettor?Quote:
Originally Posted by series1buff
Aaron.
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Why would they do this, when it is possible to buy a new Solex carburettor?Quote:
Originally Posted by series1buff
Aaron.
Hi Scallops
[ Quote ]
As for the timing being fully retarded - I don't know why Dave left it like that either....but I'm sure hear-in lies the problem..... [/Quote ]
I would say that Dave left it like that, because it sounded like the motor was running better at that postion and He left it until the rest of the problem has been worked through.
Have you cut your wallet up for gaskets yet?
I re read your other thread about using 98 octane petrol, it's really the only option that we have these days.
I will try and find some more info to go with that ignition tune up procedure I have posted, mainly to find out about the increments on the octane selector, as they do change the timing by a certain amount of degress, per each increment mark.
Cheers Arthur
Because the Indian made Solex ..isn't widely available in the UK . I bought one from Ron, of the G503 web site fame . Initially, it worked OK for a short time, then it played up . The acc.pump stopped functioning and it ran rich . I pulled it off and it awaits looking at. Not impressed at all myself but CJ and WW2 jeep owners in the USA have some success with them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron IIA
The UK series 1 owners buy NOS Webers from a few well known dealers over there in the UK. They are comparatively cheap and perform well on series 1 engines from reports.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WEBER-34-...item2eb792cf83
Mike
I had my Solex completely refurbished and Leon runs beautifully. I have a couple of spares that will be done up as well, because Thomas has a Stromberg on him that will be removed, when he is restored.Quote:
Originally Posted by series1buff
Update time! Matilda is running OK as of last night. The only thing I actually did was screw in the mix as far as I could, then back it off half a turn - and I can now rev it from idle with no backfire, once warm. I'm not going to suggest I understand why, especially as choke out fixed this problem too, and I've actually made the mix leaner. :confused:
Killer then came over with a timing light. Now here is the problem. Even with the "octane selector" at full retard, we cannot retard the timing quite enough, so back to the title of this thread!
The darned distributor just won't rotate. Took the bolts off completely - 2 mm movement max. :(
I'm guessing from Killer's comment that this could be fatal....:(
On the upside though, the engine did sound relatively OK as in - no backfire. I'll take a test drive tonight and also believe another S1 big gun aka "The Colonel" will be dropping by so fingers crossed that the magic fingers of the top brass may be able to help.
But I would just like to thank again all here for their efforts in explaining technicals and providing links etc for my benefit. It is most appreciated and I hope to be in some position to repay the favour some day.
So....any hints to free the distributor? :angel:
All things being equal you can slightly reduce the points gap to retard the timing. As to how to shift the dissy, if a pipe wrench or hammer won't fix it, leave it for another day! Soak CRC around the base every day for a couple of weeks and try again.
ALSO CONSIDER THE POSSIBLITY THAT SOMEBODY HAS INSTALLED THE DISSY IN THE WRONG POSITION PREVIOUSLY. It's rather tricky getting the dissy drive gear meshed in the corrrect gear on the camshaft . It may be out by one tooth .The manual describes how to do it, but its not 100% clear . Took me ages to get mine correct.
IF ITS CORRECT , THE DISSY SHOULD BE AT APPROX. 90 DEGREES TO THE ENGINE BLOCK with the timing set up OK .
Try soaking the base in something ..don't use excessive force to move it ...just gently apply pressure , it will loosen up eventually . They do stick over time , not unusual. MIKE
Hi DanQuote:
Originally Posted by Scallops
Great to see your having some progress.
Do as bee utey has suggested, spray the parts with plenty of CRC or similar and with lots of time, should help free up the housings.
Then with reducing the points gap to 0.10in for the moment, that will help retard the ignition, but don't forget put it back to 0.15in afterwards.
.
Would it help, if you had some pictures of the exploded view of the distributor parts ?
If so, I should be able to scan those couple of pages for you, out of the parts manual.
Workshop manual settings for the points and plugs.
Plug gap ------------- .029 to .032 in. (0,75 to 0,80 mm.) set at .030 in.
Contact breaker gap -- .014 to .016 in. (0,35 to 0,40 mm.) set at .015 in.
Don't worry too much about these following settings, unless someone that is helping you has a dwell angle meter and / or a timing light.
Cam angle ( dwell ) ------ 45°
Advance degrees -------- Centrifugal 42° ; Vacuum 24°
Advance ( Engine RPM ) -- Begins 1,520 RPM ; Ends 4,500 RPM
Cheers Arthur
Thanks again Arthur - I hope to meet you one day and thank you over dinner. :)
Went for a drive with Colonel Coleman tonight and we shall leave her be....it's driving fine! :banana:
Now, the dissy is still "stuck", but I'll do as folks suggest and get the Inox out and try again down the track. Just happy to be driving again, and better than ever before.
Again, appreciate all the fine folks who take the time to help me out - what a great community we have here. :)