where to start{new toy is here}

Before you change the oil add some engine flush such as Nulon, or Cost Effective Maintenance Cost Effective Maintenance - Home to help free the rings if they are stuck.

I have used both products and have been very impressed with them :D

The Pommy S1 Club has new distributor cap and rotor arm. UK Land Rover parts dealers such as LR Series can do the acorn nuts and plug caps; new HT cable with braid covering, is available from a variety of places such as Autosparks.

Nice car by the way!

Cheers Charlie

cheers
ive got an oil flush but have heard differing opinions the other to yours is that the gunk it frees up can block oil passages etc ..
thanks for the tips on ignition bits im shure ill need them ....main issues the dynamo bearing atm

some drill out some bolt in ,far as i can find out the series 1's c39 are riverts {else mines been riveted in} and the c 4.... are bolts or circlips
bearing remains "hoffmann 115 england "

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mfc

cheers
ive got an oil flush but have heard differing opinions the other to yours is that the gunk it frees up can block oil passages etc ..

---

Anything that could block an oil passage would need to be able to get through the strainer, and it would probably reside in the bottom of the sump at the moment.

If it concerns you, then take the sump off and scrape the accumulation of years out; clean the strainer and fill the sump with Savings brand, el-cheapo oil and engine flush, which will remove only carbon and oil tarnish and after a suitable interval drain and refill with a good oil such as Penrite Classic.

I don't think cleaners will break off pieces, which would block an oil passage, because being a detergent they keep the dirty bits in suspension,

Cheers Charlie

moot point atm without dynamo bearing ..
I was hoping to give the thing a decent run before heading west for 4 months....
guess ill hit the bearing shops tomorow

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mfc

moot point atm without dynamo bearing ..
I was hoping to give the thing a decent run before heading west for 4 months.... guess ill hit the bearing shops tomorow

---

You wouldn't live very far from a good supply of those generators, slip over to the hobby farm next door and have look at their grey Fergy (12 volt model).

My series one motor used to smoke a bit, but it wasn't the rings, the oil used to find it's way down the inlet valve guides and after holding back going down hill, you gave the motor a bit a accelerator at the bottom and she would lay a smoke cloud!
Be careful flushing a really old motor out, as lumps of gunge can come loose, do as chazza suggests and clean the sump out, but first try to find a new cork sump gasket.

As the motor uses oil, the spark plugs do suffer, replace them with some Champion N21's they are a hot plug and they tolerate oil in a cold motor and afterwards, if the motor runs on after stopping , the heat range can then be reduced back to a N12.
Another trick is to create a air gap with the spark plug lead this gives a higher voltage but short timed spark, the old timers jammed a match into the spark plug cover and pulled the lead back away from the top of the spark plug until the motor ran smoother .

Have a look at the holes in the rear tub where the 'D' tail light's are fastened, I believe they had a different pattern to the pork pie lights, the old girl may have had an earlier rear tub fitted. Tell us where the horn is situated now and what is the chassis number, the one stamped in the chassis not on the firewall plate, but if they coincide that's perfect.

That hard top was a option for that model, so where the door tops and passenger side wiper motor! I rather the soft top but finding a complete set of bows and door rails is hard.
.

[quote=wrinklearthur;1669264]You wouldn't live very far from a good supply of those generators, slip over to the hobby farm next door and have look at their grey Fergy (12 volt model).

My series one motor used to smoke a bit, but it wasn't the rings, the oil used to find it's way down the inlet valve guides and after holding back going down hill, you gave the motor a bit a accelerato<?xml version="1.0" encoding="windows-1252"?>
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Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

You wouldn't live very far from a good supply of those generators, slip over to the hobby farm next door and have look at their grey Fergy (12 volt model).

My series one motor used to smoke a bit, but it wasn't the rings, the oil used to find it's way down the inlet valve guides and after holding back going down hill, you gave the motor a bit a accelerator at the bottom and she would lay a smoke cloud!
Be careful flushing a really old motor out, as lumps of gunge can come loose, do as chazza suggests and clean the sump out, but first try to find a new cork sump gasket.

As the motor uses oil, the spark plugs do suffer, replace them with some Champion N21's they are a hot plug and they tolerate oil in a cold motor and afterwards, if the motor runs on after stopping , the heat range can then be reduced back to a N12.
Another trick is to create a air gap with the spark plug lead this gives a higher voltage but short timed spark, the old timers jammed a match into the spark plug cover and pulled the lead back away from the top of the spark plug until the motor ran smoother .

Have a look at the holes in the rear tub where the 'D' tail light's are fastened, I believe they had a different pattern to the pork pie lights, the old girl may have had an earlier rear tub fitted. Tell us where the horn is situated now and what is the chassis number, the one stamped in the chassis not on the firewall plate, but if they coincide that's perfect.

That hard top was a option for that model, so where the door tops and passenger side wiper motor! I rather the soft top but finding a complete set of bows and door rails is hard.
.

---

yea id prefer soft top to, but i guess the hard top has its benifits and i can take it off in summer..... re the chassis no is it stamped into the chassis above the rear left side spring hanger? if so i cant find one any thoughts?
ps ill try the match idea

by the way the horn {type without the trumpet} is mounted behind the grill on the left side ,by a single bolt into a threaded hole in the rad suport

for future reference the bearing in the front of the dynamo can be replaced with a fag 6202.2rsr $7 odd

arthur .. chassis and vin match ,engine no 1000 lower ....
new fuel and oil in ..

still smoking and rough ,but much less so, i could'nt get the champion n21
plugs so used a nkg item {ill try the match thing today and also just
realised i gaped the plugs incorectly}

ill have a look at the timing today and see if i can get a vaccum gauge on it
,oil up the distributor and have a look at the advance

one reason it had little power was the accelerator linkages slipping around {it hits 40mph now and thats as far as i wanta push it}

the blow by has reduced a lot but still there and still puffing out a plume
when lifting of the throttle but id expect that as its been layed up
any ides as to the differing holes in regards to pork pie lights v d lights as mentioned by authur above ?
cheers mark

I was going through some old threads and noticed yours, so hows the progress and did you find a gasket set to do those inlet valve seals?
.