Thread: 1956 Series 1 with PTO welder (home made)

Originally Posted by gromit

Sounds like the exhaust manifold has a small leak so I'll have to fix that next. Nuts don't look like they've been undone for years so could be a fun job.....



Colin

Lanox is your friend!

Just remembered the interesting item I found behind the instrument panel.

There is a lot of additional wiring because of the dual tanks (two pumps & two fuel senders), indicators, worklights, heater, the welder etc.

Roughly in the middle of the picture below, with some red insulating tape wrapped round the base.....

DSCF3501 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


It's a headlamp globe, added into the wiring. It connects to a switch that I think was for the rear worklight

At the time I just checked all the connections were good, carefully pushed it all back into place and screwed the instrument panel back in place and put it to the back of my mind. All is well but I did add a new fire extinguisher ( I didn't want to use the old yellow one that came with it !)

The large meter at the top of the panel is a voltmeter for the welder.


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

Just remembered the interesting item I found behind the instrument panel.-------
Roughly in the middle of the picture below, with some red insulating tape wrapped round the base.....
It's a headlamp globe, added into the wiring. It connects to a switch that I think was for the rear worklight.

Hi Colin

Without having the benefit of close inspection, that bulb is most likely taking the place of a fuse, if there is a current overload of the wiring the bulb lights up instead of a fuse blowing.

.

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hi Colin

Without having the benefit of close inspection, that bulb is most likely taking the place of a fuse, if there is a current overload of the wiring the bulb lights up instead of a fuse blowing.

.

Arthur,

Problem is you'd only notice the overload in the dark.
I wondered if it was acting as a resistor, or a load in a circuit. Next time I get her out I'll confirm what that switch does, I'm fairly sure it's the worklight at the back of the vehicle.


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

Arthur,

Problem is you'd only notice the overload in the dark.
I wondered if it was acting as a resistor, or a load in a circuit. Next time I get her out I'll confirm what that switch does, I'm fairly sure it's the worklight at the back of the vehicle.

Hi Colin

Be careful there, It might be the Gremlin's reading lamp.

.

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hi Colin

Be careful there, It might be the Gremlin's reading lamp.

.

Arthur,

Touch wood I haven't had any Gremlins with this vehicle so maybe the globe has blown and the Gremlin can't see what it's doing ?


Colin

I took the Series 1 out for a run last weekend.
I still need to fix the blowing exhaust manifold. The nuts on the studs in the exhaust manifold will not come undone so I will do the job in the back shed (no power) just in case I have to drill out and replace the studs and the car is without a manifold for a while. Looks like the exhast tappet cover has to come off to allow access to one of the manifold bolts, might as well check the exhaust tappets at the same time.


On the front driveway after a few checks ready for a drive.

DSCN2361 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

The home made (OK work made) governor pulley and oiltite governor.

DSCN2365 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Dual fuel pump and regulator assembly.
The non-return in one Facet is leaking so I need to replace it.

DSCN2366 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Capstan winch. Steel mounts for the fairlead roller (is this correct ?)

DSCN2368 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


Colin

Decided to fix the blowing exhaust, the job has been on the to-do list for a while but I've had too many other projects etc.
Late last night I went down to the back shed with a torch....
I'd soaked the manifold nuts in Plus Gas the day before (brought out with all my stuff from the UK years ago). Three nuts holding the exhaust pipe came undone, but there were virtually no threads left (just rust holding it all together). One stud sheared off which was to be expected. I had to take care with the exhaust gasket because it looked suspiciously like asbestos.
Had to remove the side cover to access the front and rear nuts on the manifold but all came undone OK.

Took the manifold back to a shed with lights ! Cleaned up the block side with a file, some distortion where the manifold was clamped.
Now need to extract the three remaining studs & drill out the broken one, they were left soaking in Plus Gas overnight.

One thing I found surprising was that the studs/nuts holding the exhaust pipe to the manifold were UNF, I was expecting BSF. Not sure if this is original or has been repaired at some point in it's life.

I also noticed that the steering relay is leaking, I haven't touched this since I've owned the vehicle (apart from topping it up) so I think I'll drop the bottom plate and fit a new seal & gasket.

Off to 4-Wheel Drives for gaskets, studs etc. later today.

Pictures to follow.


Colin