Restoration information

Hi guys,
Ive done a bit of oxy welding ali ,doing tubing and fittings for auto air/con hoses etc. Its easier than doing sheet ali though. Doing klonks panels Ive found cleanlyness very important, a slightly carbon flame to reduce oxidisation and a heatsink behind the weld makes a big differance and catches any melt downs. I use a no 6 tip with a smallish flame, then carbon black the weld area with the acetlene flame, and then heat the area slowly untill the carbon dissappears, this is an indication you are nearing the welding temp, then start playing with the rod in the flame on the weld, keep the torch moving over and around the weld other wise holes will appear. I like 3mm rod as anything smaller melts as soon as you put it into the flame and you cant poke and play with the parent material to find out how soft the ali is getting. Keep plenty of flux on the weld. Ive run out of rod and have had trouble with welds cracking when trying to panelbeat, so will try using some of the old panel next time but Ive been abit busy. Remeber the heat will buckle the panel and you will have to streighten it again.
To panelbeat dents use a slapper and pine backing dolly for flat areas and use the hammers for corners and curves. The slapper doesnt leave marks like the hammer does. and its going to streach if you hit it hard using hammers with steel dollys.
Have fun.

Cheers Steve

I have just got off the phone with Peter Tommasini and have ordered the full set of 6 DVDs. Peter said he has more DVDs coming out in Feb this year. He also has a number of videos on YouTube.

Peter is also coming to Perth to run a class for anyone who is interested. It is being organised by Clive Ross from "The Hammerworks" in Rockingham. Peter doesn't know the dates as he is waiting on Clive to get enough numbers to run a class. I tried to phone Clive but he is on holidays until the 14/1/13. I will give him a call when he get s back and let you know more information.

Thanks Klonk for the info. I saw the photos and progress reports on LRSOC forum last night, Klonk is looking great and I have a million questions. Looking at Klonk, I can't wait to get struck into my 80" (who is still missing a name).

Regards
Jonesy

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Originally Posted by Jonesy1972

I have just got off the phone with Peter Tommasini and have ordered the full set of 6 DVDs. Peter said he has more DVDs coming out in Feb this year. He also has a number of videos on YouTube.

Peter is also coming to Perth to run a class for anyone who is interested. It is being organised by Clive Ross from "The Hammerworks" in Rockingham. Peter doesn't know the dates as he is waiting on Clive to get enough numbers to run a class. I tried to phone Clive but he is on holidays until the 14/1/13. I will give him a call when he get s back and let you know more information.

Thanks Klonk for the info. I saw the photos and progress reports on LRSOC forum last night, Klonk is looking great and I have a million questions. Looking at Klonk, I can't wait to get struck into my 80" (who is still missing a name).

Regards
Jonesy

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When I popped in to see Peter Tommasini he spent about an hour with me and even got the apprentice to make me a coffee, how long was your phone conversation ??
If you check out his website he can supply all the specialised tools, not cheap but well made. I got a flipper/slapper for aluminium he suggests smooth for aluminium and cross cut (like a file) for steel.

Interesting to hear he has some more DVD's coming out. My wife got my set from Gasolene, turns out Peter makes nothing from these so best to buy direct from him.
Not sure what's happed to Peach, I believe he has stepped away from the business alltogether.


Colin

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Originally Posted by chazza

Gas welding aluminium according to P&T is much the same as welding steel, just use a smaller tip. All the books I found said to use a larger one, which is bulldust.

Do what Gromit said and buy the DVD's - absolutely fantastic!

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My Dad has been building, repairing and oxy welding aluminium panels on classic cars for decades. He has had most success with a large tip (number 10 for 1.2-1.6mm aluminium).
A large tip is necessary due to the excellent heat conductivity of aluminium. The big secret is low gas pressure. I'm not sure what pressures he uses as he always makes the final adjustment by feel - blowing the gas on the back of his hand.

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Originally Posted by awabbit6

He has had most success with a large tip (number 10 for 1.2-1.6mm aluminium).
A large tip is necessary due to the excellent heat conductivity of aluminium.

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Thanks for the info. cobber.

I put it to you though, that a no. 10 tip is not a large tip on aluminium; on 1.6mm. I would be going for a no. 12 on 1.6 steel, so it follows from my earlier post; my own experience and the experience of Peach & Thomasini and indeed of your Dad, that a smaller tip on aluminium works best.

The smallest oxy tip I have used is a no. 6; followed by 8; 10; 12; etc. all the way up to no 32,

Cheers Charlie

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Originally Posted by gromit

When I popped in to see Peter Tommasini he spent about an hour with me and even got the apprentice to make me a coffee, how long was your phone conversation ??
If you check out his website he can supply all the specialised tools, not cheap but well made. I got a flipper/slapper for aluminium he suggests smooth for aluminium and cross cut (like a file) for steel.

Interesting to hear he has some more DVD's coming out. My wife got my set from Gasolene, turns out Peter makes nothing from these so best to buy direct from him.
Not sure what's happed to Peach, I believe he has stepped away from the business alltogether.


Colin

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Hi Colin,

I spent about 45mins on the phone with Peter, really nice bloke and more than happy to help. I told him a number of people from this forum directed me to his videos and to talk to him and I am glad I did. He gave me a head start on how to take the dents out of the Ali panels and a few other tips. I am interested in learning the old skills so I can pass them onto my students. I can't wait to get the DVDs so I can get started playing with some old panels I have.

If any one comes across an old English wheel going cheap let me know.

Regards
Jonesy

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Originally Posted by Jonesy1972

Hi Colin,

I spent about 45mins on the phone with Peter, really nice bloke and more than happy to help. I told him a number of people from this forum directed me to his videos and to talk to him and I am glad I did. He gave me a head start on how to take the dents out of the Ali panels and a few other tips. I am interested in learning the old skills so I can pass them onto my students. I can't wait to get the DVDs so I can get started playing with some old panels I have.

If any one comes across an old English wheel going cheap let me know.

Regards
Jonesy

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Peter sells an English Wheel but it isn't cheap.
There are some fabricated Chimese ones available but they don't look sturdy enough.

Radum Pty Ltd


Colin

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Originally Posted by Jonesy1972

Thanks MuckUte? Are you using oxy-acetylene? Neutral flame? Carburising flame? Are you using welding rods and if so what type of rods? I heard you can use old scraps of Birmabright but I was told to use the same thickness or less than the panel being repaired or you will melt a hole in the panel before you melt the scrap.

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I am using oxy-acet gear. Have only has a quick play with some thicker bits of aluminium from my scrap bin at the moment as I don't have any spare panels or sheet to practice on yet. For the Birmabright panels I have been recomended to use 5356 tig rods. I have been using some 1.5mm rods and a #6 tip but I think this is to small. Regulator pressure is low but can't tell you exactly because my gauges are stuffed, I think somewhere under 50.

As others have said A slightly carbourising flame is good. For cleaning I have been using scotchbrite pads and stainless steel wire brushes there are also special grinding disks for aluminium.