And so the restoration begins...

you might find youre oil presure light coming on at idle or at power off when hot {as in coasting to a stop sign}.....mine did this {still dose when i stopbut it was heaps worse with modern oils}....from what ive gleaned its not a terminal thing if its not on under load or acceleration..
scares the bejeasus outa me starting an old unrun engine...
but pull the sump first there will be a horror story of filth in there
also clean the oil filter screen ......easy a bolt and split pin..ps just reuse the sump gasket

when you post up broken brake pic could you get a shot of the two sockets on the top left of youre instriment panel from as close as u can get...cheers
ps grabing those cab pics tomorow lunchtime ...

Thanks. been raining all day. only managed to buy petrol right now. Poured some into tank - key turned - no fuel pump buzz.... tried to start, nothing..

put some fuel down the carb, no bueno. I'm guessing I'm not getting any spark. I havent tested the spark yet. cant figure out how to get the screwdriver to short the leads to try.

What should I check? it cranks healthily still but no fire. Not even a cough like its trying.

so I think my main mission for tomorrow is trying to find spark... I might try and drop the sump if it doesnt rain tomorrow which I doubt will stop at this point in time... So maybe try and find out why I have no spark first!

when I turn the light switch on, the front parkers turn on. But no tail light and no headlights. Would the single fuse control both the headlights and the fuel pump? and do the park lights work through that fuse as well?

anyway yes, suggestions regarding how to go about finding spark please? whats the green light on the dash? it goes off when trying to crank then comes back on. red stays on which I guess is battery.

Green light is oil pressure light

the light issue will most likley be coroded or dirty plugs {the "butler lamps} or parkers come on in mone at the first turn of the switch.. re spark id find a drill bit or something thats the same size as the sparkplug , get someone to crank and hold the nail/drill/steel near 2 or 3 mm from the head and watch
{best done at dark}
you can just put the steel on youre tounge as long as youre pacemaker is positive to earth.........

not sure if anyone will be around to help me. lol might just try grounding it on the body or something. or take a video of it. Hopefully I can get it started up tomorrow. lol

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Originally Posted by LoveB

Thanks. been raining all day. only managed to buy petrol right now. Poured some into tank - key turned - no fuel pump buzz.... tried to start, nothing..

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With the key on is there power to the coil and the fuel pump? The wires to check are the one's that comes out of the wiring loom.

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put some fuel down the carb, no bueno. I'm guessing I'm not getting any spark. I havent tested the spark yet. cant figure out how to get the screwdriver to short the leads to try.

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Pull the lead that goes to number one spark plug and push it onto another plug laying across the engine and you should be able to see the spark in the spark plug gap or use the spark plug out of number one cylinder.

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when I turn the light switch on, the front parkers turn on. But no tail light and no headlights. Would the single fuse control both the headlights and the fuel pump? and do the park lights work through that fuse as well?

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Ref; http://www.silverforce.co.uk/TB-UK/wire1.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1362136351

1 trailer light socket
2 stop,tail lamps
3 snap connectors for trailer light
4 ammeter
5 petrol level gauge
6 headlamp main beam warning light
7 ignition warning light
8 panel lights
9 panel lights switch
10 speedometer
11 ignition and lightning switch
12 mixture control warning light
13 oil pressure warning light
14 oil pressure switch
15 windscreen wiper plug and socket
16 windscreen wiper
17 petrol tank level unit
18 stop lamp switch
19 inspection lamp sockets
20 RB106 voltage control box
21 SF5 fusebox with 35amp fuse
22 mixture control switch(at control)
23 mixture control thermostat switch at cylinder head
24 petrol pump
25 starter
26 starter solenoid switch
27 dynamo
28 horn
29 horn push and headlamp dipper switch (86 and 107)
29A horn push
29B headlamp dipper switch
30 junction box
31 12V battery (positive earth)
32 ignition coil
33 distributor
34 headlamps
35 main beam
36 dip beam
37 side lamps
38 snap connectors shown thus --[====]--

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whats the green light on the dash? it goes off when trying to crank then comes back on. red stays on which I guess is battery.

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No 13, Green is the oil pressure light and if it is going out at cranking speed, you have a engine that has good bearing clearances, you are in luck.

No 7, red is ignition, if that is on at cranking speed means there is power through the voltage regulator.
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"With the key on is there power to the coil and the fuel pump? The wires to check are the one's that comes out of the wiring loom."

i can distinctly hear my pump "click" a few times as i first turn the key{perhaps tick is a better word....take the bonet off itll be easier to hear}
rig up a bulb with 2 wires {test light if you have one} one end to power wire 1 to a clean earth....if theres power at the pump itll light up

arthur had a good post about fixing fuel pumps on the side of the road...
another thought use a long peice of wire so its sparking up near the thermostat housing if ur on ur own

Thanks guys. Up early today so im gonna check them all out today

Had a better look around the engine bay, checked fuse and it was broken. as in not even slightly cut, but like there was nothing in the middle. put new fuse on and still no bueno. So I'm trying to move it into the garage now so I can open it up despite the rain and check on the wiring properly. even after the new fuse I get no clicks with the fuel pump. havent bothered to add more fuel to the carb cause I don thtink thats gonna help at this stage

Tried to short dizzy cap. No bueno :(