I wonder where it ended up, are those banjo bolts interchangeable?Quote:
Originally Posted by series1buff
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I wonder where it ended up, are those banjo bolts interchangeable?Quote:
Originally Posted by series1buff
.
The metering plug often goes missing as people pull the head off and the plug falls out .... it is a tiny part , and on the ground among dirt and leaves , it is overlooked when the head is put back on :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklearthur
The bolts are the same I think .. but the lower one holds the oil pressure sender unit ... will have to check that before a definitive answer
Mike
thanks mike,i knew it was there{suposedly} so didnt loose it......also have fine drills and hand drill so if its feasable ill try and knock one up
new` engine and mounts in ,just gotta bolt up genny /belt, starter moror ,rad panel back on
and my main fear ,distributor in Should i use the known functional one or the new engines one....thought being that neither housings{upper aloy distrib housing} have been moved ..
I might be able to turn some up on my lathe, but it is a very fiddly and small part , I'd have to hold the piece in a collet . I don't have a collect chuck yet , I do have the collets :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mfc
Mike
bolts...are..basicly..the..same..but..lower..one.. is..at..least..a..cm..shorterQuote:
Originally Posted by series1buff
im..putting..oil,,in..tonight[nanna,,nap,,atm]..ill..mesure..the..lengths..before..for..future.. reference..someones...gunna..need..to..know..in..t he..future
its a solo nightmare the first time....
tips
1...take at least one guard off and lower engine from side of car
2 cut out/unbolt{lmfao...grind off} engine mounts...locate clutch plate with rrc jack handle}thick joining section if you havent got a scrap g box input shaft
3 the blackburn guys engine mounts are a real tight fit and not whitworth threaded{af or metric threadi asume}
4 save a half day and dont get an indian waterpump
5 have taps and dies about even if metric and imp
6 bolts from an 1955 engine arnt nesisarily the same as an 88 inch engine often different lengths{mm's difference but thats all it takes}
7 the blackburn gasket kits dont have a exhaust manifold to pipe gasket
8 fresh tetnus inoculation ,band aids,and a merchant seamans vocabulary are esential
its a solo nightmare the first time....
tips
1...take at least one guard off and lower engine from side of car
2 cut out/unbolt{lmfao...grind off} engine mounts...locate clutch plate with rrc jack handle}thick joining section if you havent got a scrap g box input shaft
3 the blackburn guys engine mounts are a real tight fit and not whitworth threaded{af or metric threadi asume}
4 save a half day and dont get an indian waterpump
5 have taps and dies about even if metric and imp
6 bolts from an 1955 engine arnt nesisarily the same as an 88 inch engine often different lengths{mm's difference but thats all it takes}
7 the blackburn gasket kits dont have a exhaust manifold to pipe gasket
8 fresh tetnus inoculation ,band aids,and a merchant seamans vocabulary are esential
started on 3rd push of button :o
no fuel or oil stink in exhaust...
very light light grey smoke..
unnoticeable fumes from vents
Still sounding rough and to loud{buggered gasket between manifold and exhaust , so needs tuneing and tinkering
Anyone got any thoughts on "running" it in, the po said it had new rings and I replaced the big ends{mains were fine} as well as new valves{exhaust} and timing chain and full re gasket
I cant set oil relief valve as im wating on an adapter to fit a mechanical one and the smiths warning light sensor..
another side benefit is that the clutch has improved, the plate used to stick and the car would give a slight lurch {mm's just felt it}.also gone is the irregular need to change into 4 or 3rd bto get into reverse / first......
so youre thoughts on its first few miles would be appreciated greatly
regards mark
G'day Mark,Quote:
Originally Posted by mfc
1. Use a running-in oil.
2. Avoid excessive idling.
3. Go for a longish trip (1 to 2 hrs) on an undulating road; give it full throttle on hills, whilst in top-gear; this helps bed the rings to the bore because of the extra gas pressure in the cylinder. You can do the trip in stages, as long as you use a wide range of throttle positions, e.g. 4 trips of 1/2 hour.
4. Fit a magnet to the sump plug.
5. if you have fitted a new camshaft, run it in at 2200rpm for at least 20 minutes to work harden the lobes, otherwise the lobes will kark it - don't ask me how I know this! :(
What do you mean by a mechanical relief-valve? Doesn't it have the spring and plunger, mechanical-type anyway?
Cheers Charlie
mechanical oil pressure guage...you set the screw out spring /ball valve to give a certain psi at a set speed..
comp test hot 120 ,114 ,120,117
realy starting to smoke {normal colour/normal smell} scince the old engine spat oil out the tail pipe im assuming most of this is oil in the exhaust pipe and mixture timing {that logical?} its still 100 percent on the old one...
im running it for 10 to 15 mins at different revs{lowish} while im tinkering with it ...