Solex Carby

Garry; I think I might have the answer. In the PDF I sent you it explains that;
"... it is possible by selection of air and petrol jets to supplement the main petrol mixture... allows the size of the main jet to be chosen thus... avoids over-richness at full-throttle low revolutions...

My guess is that your carburettor has been jetted for a much larger displacement engine, and essentially it is flooding when you change gear on a steep hill i.e. full throttle, low speed, low revs.

The answer perhaps, is to experiment with different emulsion tubes; and the petrol jet labelled Ep in the diagram I sent you. The bad news I suspect is that Solex parts are hard to find and you may not be able to get them; try Gower and Lee, UK,

Cheers Charlie

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Originally Posted by garrycol

Dave - thanks for you input but the issue is happening when the throttle is open powering up a hill not closed, however I do agree that excess fuel is going down the throat and flooding the system.

My understanding of a manifold vacuum gauge is that it needs to have access to the manifold after the carby or at its base - in my case there are no ports like say there are on a Rover V8 manifold- the manifold is just a piece of mild steel pipe with a plate welded on where the carby is bolted. I guess I could drill a hole into it and create a port but at this stage I would prefer not too.

A general question - seeing there is no adjustment on the float - what would happen to general drivability (noting it is flooding on hills) if I effectively lowered the float level and hence the amount of fuel in the float chamber by soldering a bit of solder on the float arm where it lifts the float needle.

Cheers

Garry

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theres always adjustment on the float, just sometimes you need to be a bit agricultural about it....

my bad, i read the original question to mean that it died off once you closed the throttle to downshift.

second in a halfie just about climbs trees as is I dont want to see the hill that you need crawlie gear in an empty halfie to get up...

might also help to check the timing, if thats walked a bit you can get some interesting issues.

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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

On level ground after running the engine, first disconnect the fuel line, then carefully lift the top of the carby and measure the distance between the fuel and the top edge of the float chamber.

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Originally Posted by chazza

According to a scan Mike from Gippsland posted years ago, the fuel pressure must be between 1 1/4 psi to 2 1/2 psi.

Cheers Charlie

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by chazza

Garry; I think I might have the answer. In the PDF I sent you it

Cheers Charlie

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

theres always adjustment on the float, just sometimes you need to be a bit agricultural about it....

my bad, i read the original question to mean that it died off once you closed the throttle to downshift.

might also help to check the timing, if thats walked a bit you can get some interesting issues.

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My apology - I thought I had responded to you all on this last week but it seems I forgot to hit the "submit" icon :(.

Charlie - thanks for the PDF great information - though I am not in a position to tinker with internals of the carby and there seems there are no experts locally.

Thanks for the PSI numbers - would seem to be correct. My car has a Facet 480616 pump and when I tried to find the specs of this I could not find any but similar pumps are running 6-8 psi so if this is so I started thinking that when the float it is a high angle the higher pressure maybe pushing past the needle.

So I have put in a replacement pump that is rated 1.5-3.5psi. This seemed to have a positive impact as I was able to drive up the big steep hill without it dying (still with a miss though) - was able to pull one higher gear for most of it and up to 10kph faster - so was part of the issue.

Arthur - I parked up on the flat and pulled off the top of the carby. (I was surprised at the amount of fine carbon around the air inlet of the carb.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps25f8c93b.jpg

The fuel level was only half was up the fuel chamber with the float in
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps69d21eb9.jpg

And with the float removed only about 1/3 up the fuel chamber (near where it changes diameter - the dirt is not dirt but previous corrosion)
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps27de95b5.jpg

So to my untrained eye this level would seem to be OK - I am not sure what the level would have been with the old higher pressure pump. I am going to put on a different carby top, float and needle and see how that goes.

Dave - I adjusted the idle up and that has also helped the gear change on steep hills.

On the ignition of ignition - it has an fully electronic aftermarket system that has 16 maps inbuilt - there are not weights or vacuum advance as all of this is done by the system. I have statically reset it, so it is firing as designed however:

The standard dizzy has 0 advance at 850 revs, 10.5 degrees advance at 2000rpm, 21.2 degrees at 3000rpm and 26.8 at 4000rpm.

I am not sure what map is actually set on the electronic ignition as I have not wanted to play with it at this stage but typical figures are:
0 at idle, 16.8 at 2000rpm and 28 at 3000rpm. Other specialist maps range from 17 to 24 at 2000rpm and 26-32 at 3000rpm.

So you can see the electronic maps are far more advanced than the standard map - I am not sure if this is an issue but on occasion on starting it can want to try an fire backwards but does not - the engine does not ping or run any differently on 91, 95 or 98 RON.

On the road a Haflinger is a vehicle that is run flat out - the engine red lines at 4800rpm and when driving the engine is normally above 4200rpm all the time. The spread of gear ratios is not good and are more offroad orientated with max speed in fourth is 40kph so when in 5th and hitting a hill it starts dying but you have to wait until speed has dropped from say 60 or 70 to 40 before you can change down.

They are a horrid machine to drive onroad (you feel extremely vulnerable) but fun offroad :).

Why do I post my Haffie questions on a Landrover Forum - because I get great answers here, where on the other relevant forums I don't get much of a response.

So I appreciate your input and help.

Cheers

Garry

Well I will be .............

I have three parts carbies in my spare parts bin. I took the top of one and noted that the choke was a little different and it had a different needle and seat so I put this carby top, needle and seat and float into my carby.

All of a sudden the engine no longer seems strangled, I was seeing a GPS speed of 80kph where I would normally only see 70 and I when i went to the big hill up Black Mountain it would now pull it in 4th gear and 40 kph and once into top where before it was 3rd most of the way and 25kph - no hesitation and no missing.

So my guess the issue was, too high fuel pressure combined with a dodgy needle.

Now need to get the mixture sorted as it is still rich.

Cheers

Garry

Nothing like a good news story to start the day!:D

Have you tried Gower and Lee yet?

Cheers Charlie

Hi Charlie - no not contacted them yet though I have them bookmarked and looked through their site.

I am not really competent to play around with the real innards of the carby and would prefer a competent person to do so if I could find one.

Now that it seems to be running OK I am going to leave it alone.

I cannot get the correct Zenith carby but have purchased a Unimog version which when rejetted is a match for the correct carby. There is a place in Melbourne that can rebuild this for me.

My inlet manifold was modified to take the Solex carby I currently have so I will have to get a new manifold which will not be easy or get one made. But all that will have to wait a while.

Cheers

Garry