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Well it was hardly the effort, LOL 10mls DBG, 10mls thinners, 5mls hardener and even then I had too much, all for 6 bolts etc,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps6529ce23.jpg
gun all clean everything else away for the night, but my hands are still paint stained, anyway cheers Dennis
Not a lot happening here of late, had some trouble with a tooth +++ still in pain but not as bad. Anyway the last post I put up about mixing a small amount of DBG was a waste of time etc, as I was going through the box of items that have been prepped and tagged and bagged, I found the 4 bolts that hold the bulkhead to the R & L steering sup/brackets, painted DBG & Gloss Black, damn..
Yesterday and this morning I had been playing with getting a dual gauge ready to be repaired, the temp side of things doesn't work, anyway I took the instrument down to Newcastle where I generally have them repaired only to be told OH&S has canned them from repairing such items, due to the explosive risks!! damn again!!!!!.. I did buy some fittings to attach an oil pressure gauge and one for the capillary temp gauge, I removed the fitting that was in the thermostat housing, only to find it was stripped!!
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps5cceb6e8.jpg
shock horror, so I set about removing the housing to get a closer look at the thread, it looked downright UGLY,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps906d4348.jpg
anyway I started a 3/8"BSP tap into the rusty hole, only to find that it was screwing in as normal, it cleaned the threads out nicely, much to my relief.
I noticed this gap before and have wondered if it is correct, the thermostat sits under and has 2 circular gaskets, but is this gap normal???
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps7918662a.jpg
Next little job was to remove the LHS steering sup/bracket
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps0a0dcb9e.jpg
so I could get a good look at the oil line etc, tucked up above the starter motor, turns out the thread size for the oil fittings is 1/8"BSP.
This morning I had to move the Series 1 up under the carport out of the direct sunlight/heat and cover the strips on both sides of the tub with paint stripper,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps41773640.jpg
I reckon I got most of it off, just a rub down with some paper will remove the remainder, I'm sitting here typing this and my back is killing me, slept way too long in the one position damn pain killers, anyway cheers Dennis:angel:
Don't they have a thick "O" under the thermostat housing & no gasket, that's the way it was on my 80" & is correct.
Hurting both ends that no good. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinty
What is your opinion about those couple of pop rivets in the tub that are holding the ends of the strengthening strip up underneath, do you think they could be original?
I have seen them before and thought they may have been a repair, but after seeing yours I'm not so sure.
Otto Instruments still repair the temp gauges, We had the tube repaired on the Jag late last year.
Another warm day here again, managed to get a bit further down the road towards having the tub presentable for etch primer. Some parts like these are just downright hard to manage,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps222f0995.jpg
so I thought blow it, I mean grit blast it, so I did
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps72881e31.jpg
all 6 of them and a heap of spot welds as well. My wife was away for the day so with much haste I cleaned up the mess and looked at some other sections of the tub that power tools cannot get into because of their physical size, so with time still on my side, I run up the compressor again and hit those parts as well
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps191a6c75.jpg
still a little bit to do, but gee it's a lot cleaner than it was, I did all the front edges of the seat boxes/transom panel while I was on the go
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps11d44265.jpg
just a little bit of residual paint left, then I should be able to re- rivet the panels together again.
It took me about 1 hour to clean up the grit etc, the good wife noticed that I had been using something, she is not colour blind like me LOL and could see things that I couldn't, anyway that was my day, cheers Dennis
Another warm day 36c, working most of the day out in the direct sunlight, I needed to put the parts of the radiator and rad/sup panel back together, before any of it suffers damage from sitting around the shed. I found some shade for a while and put it all together
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps68fa9a39.jpg
before I could fit the shroud, all the brass screws had to be finished in the lathe, as they had been shortened using a hack saw, which made it difficult to refit the hex nuts etc.
A quick rat through the box of items ready for fitting, found the 3 bolts etc that hold the radiator sup/panel + 9 rubber spacers, offer it all up, fit the top rad/hose to stop the radiator falling onto the water pump flange, line up the water pump pulley/fan blades etc, and managed to pot the 4 holes on my first try, refit the fan belt, then bottom radiator hose, WRONG!!!!, it wouldn't go on, I could not believe it.
The shroud is very close to the bottom outlet pipe, so it all had to come back off, I was not happy about that at all (insert many swear words/cusses here).
I had to back off all the brass screws, push bottom hose on, but could not fit the worm drive clamp, I had to undo it and feed it around then rejoin it!!, anyway with that done retighten all the screws holding the shroud, and refit the whole assembly back onto the chassis, after a short period it looked like this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
and after checking that I had not missed anything, we refitted the bonnet, as the weather people say it might rain next week
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps8e0e58d9.jpg
Next job will be to get the door gaps correct, the LHS has a 5.5mm gap the RHS is double that amount + a little more. This has been compounded by the fact that the RHS B/head outrigger had been cut off and remanufactured (nice job at that) but it is a little too far forward, hence the big door gap. So after reading through the search engine in the UK Series 1 club it confirmed what I had already thought I would have to do, and that is cut the tube that the bolt goes through, some off the B/head, some off the chassis, so this will happen on my next 4 days off weather permitting.
The gap that exists on the RHS is way too big, the door locks would not have held, everything would have to have been packed way beyond what I would consider safe, anyway that's been my day, another step closer, cheers Dennis
Hi Dennis
I hope this info helps any newcomers to your thread.
That top radiator hose needs to be shortened by 1" where it meets the radiator, as you can see it is slightly kinked.
They only make the one size hose and the replacement hoses are made longer so they can go on the 88" as well.
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps022f1631.jpg
.
Hi
looking at the top hose, the advice is correct.
cheers
Ian
I have been on the phone talking with the good people at Otto's, they are going to repair my dual Oil pressure/water temp gauge, thank you to those forum users who steered me in the right direction. I had shortened some 5/16" bolts that will hold the tub to the chassis, and etch primed them, along with the RHS steering sup/bracket and a few other items they all received their top coat of Gloss Black yesterday, along with a few other items
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psa54ab766.jpg
Later in the day, I needed to move a few things around to get my 110 in the backyard up on ramps,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psebbbb6ee.jpg
a small fuel leak has me puzzled, after wiping everything dry I still cannot find the source of the leak. I also like to keep the underside of the vehicle looking good, and having some Gloss Black left over, a quick clean up and wipe over with thinners, it now looks a little better
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psc726b69d.jpg
Moving right along with the bulk/head door gaps etc, I measured the gaps that I had from top to bottom R<>L. The LHS has what I consider to be a nice even gap, it was the RHS that needed the attention, and it got it today, out with a 5" angle grinder with a 1mm cutting disc, work out the best way to attack the job, with minimal sparks etc getting onto and in the Land Rover, anyway the job before
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps865840fc.jpg
about 5 minutes later I had removed a nice 3mm slice from the base of the B/head, allowing for the 1mm disc =4 mm, I tried to take an image of the cut off, but it's all blurred out
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psd6bb0885.jpg
after driving the bolt back through, it now looks like this
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps45aef98e.jpg
the door gap on the RHS is now approx. 7-8mm which is much more respectable.
A quick browse through my box of parts ready for fitting, I located the 3 chassis bolts that hold the steering support panel/bracket,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps461333ec.jpg
all chassis bolts and the 4 that hold the steering sup/bracket to the B/head have all been fitted but have not yet been tensioned, for obvious reasons. While I was browsing in the box of parts I came across the blanking panel for LH drive, and seeing I have been sinking blind rivets into the transom panel for the stiffening panels etc I thought well lets whack these 4 in,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psfc37b50e.jpg
well fitting the bottom 2 is going to be problematic/difficult ++, I might have to do what the military did when fitting the Nomenclature plate 4 x 2BA screws etc.
Before removing the doors I tried the Gal/strips, to check for height alignment,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps87017c99.jpg
they look OK to me, anyway cheers Dennis
ps I knew about the one size fits all hose, I will not cut it off until I have checked the fit with the guards on etc, when happy with the result then I will shorten it, but it is good advice for new players,..