My 1955 86" rebuild.

John, that type of fastener/clip was used on the early S2A, well it was on 112-501 when it was stripped down, it is hard to see the holes in this image but they are there
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...92akaChloe.jpg
so I went with it. I know all types of screws/self tappers etc have been used on various models throughout the years, self tappers stuff up holes eventually, small 4BA screws are a right PIA at the best of times, but I will be using 6 x some type of small screws to hold the rear blinkers insitu, cheers Dennis
ps I forgot the reasoning, Series 1 guards vibrate like crazy (or at least that's my recollection from 40 years ago) so if this does happen on mine, at least I will be able to change the globe in the blinker light by undoing the 2 self tappers that screw into the nylon block, and they will not wear out in my lifetime LOL,,.

Hi Dennis , I stoped the guards on Landy vibrating by using a 25mm x 2mm flat bar under the guard & clamping the guard between it & the front panel :o, I also did the same down the rear if the guard clamping the flange fully against the fire wall:cool:. This stoped the vibration & also stoped cracking of the guards. :D I know it's not origional but like your nylon incerts to hold the lights on if it prevents other problems & can't be seen why not.
Gee you do a good restoration ,:BigThumb::BigThumb::BigThumb: You can come & wave your wand over Landy any day.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 1950landy

Hi Dennis , I stoped the guards on Landy vibrating by using a 25mm x 2mm flat bar under the guard & clamping the guard between it & the front panel :o, I also did the same down the rear if the guard clamping the flange fully against the fire wall:cool:......

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This sort of retrospective modification used to be quite common on Series 1s. Usually installed after the mudguard cracked!

John

Not a great deal accomplished today but some progress nonetheless.
The rear blinkers that I was going to use were incorrect as they were stop/clearance lights (as fitted to No5 trailers) so a quick scrounge through my left over trailer parts and I soon sourced the correct ones, here is a shot of the rear showing the 'Pork Pie' lights
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps4gqkbrlr.jpg
I had intended to have the blinker lights up as high as possible but I had forgotten about the Oval badge, so now they are to be mounted lower, the position for them has been marked out in pencil, I just hope I have got it right,,.
The light bodies were stripped the rubber boots given a thorough clean up with armor all, chrome rings with Brasso
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psfaa5syy1.jpg
the light bodies were grit blasted and painted
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psg7cq7kpe.jpg
and I stripped a few lengths of Green/White & Green/Red wire from this loom
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psa58gb4x5.jpg
as I wanted to keep the wiring easy to follow as per the circuit, anyway maybe tomorrow I will have moved along a little further, cheers Dennis

I needed to get out for a hour or so this morning, so we went for a drive up through the Pokolbin SF, I hadn't been in there for a number of years quite a few changes, houses in what I call a flood plain!!!, obviously they have never experienced a flood or maybe not talked to the locals, anyway that's their problem all in all a nice enjoyable 90 minutes.
Now after lunch and into the serious stuff of cutting the holes for rear blinkers, well I couldn't see any of the light marks in pencil that I had done yesterday, so over to the recycle bin and get some stiff cardboard, check measurements again cut cardboard for the RHS, then check that it can be used as a reverse pattern for the LHS and it was, so mark the spot, punch the spot with a punch, then set the dividers to half of 1 5/16", this is now the point of no return, scribe the outer of the hole to be cut, drill a pilot hole, open it up with a 3/8" drill
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
then I use my Air/conditioners fitters tool to cut a neat 1 3/16" diameter hole
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
screw the square shaft with a spanner, it cuts as it pulls in the die and you end up with a very neat hole
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
apply, very carefully a half round file and open up the hole to the scribed line, then check n recheck with the light so as it's a snug fit in the hole
when happy with the fit drill the 3 holes 9/64" for the 3 fixing screws
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
then the job is half finished as it's not wired into the loom as yet, but it looks the part
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
anyway we will see what tomorrow brings, cheers Dennis

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dinty

I needed to get out for a hour or so this morning, so we went for a drive up through the Pokolbin SF, I hadn't been in there for a number of years quite a few changes, houses in what I call a flood plain!!!, obviously they have never experienced a flood or maybe not talked to the locals, anyway that's their problem all in all a nice enjoyable 90 minutes.
Now after lunch and into the serious stuff of cutting the holes for rear blinkers, well I couldn't see any of the light marks in pencil that I had done yesterday, so over to the recycle bin and get some stiff cardboard, check measurements again cut cardboard for the RHS, then check that it can be used as a reverse pattern for the LHS and it was, so mark the spot, punch the spot with a punch, then set the dividers to half of 1 5/16", this is now the point of no return, scribe the outer of the hole to be cut, drill a pilot hole, open it up with a 3/8" drill
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psxacn1eev.jpg
then I use my Air/conditioners fitters tool to cut a neat 1 3/16" diameter hole
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psyimf4c2z.jpg
screw the square shaft with a spanner, it cuts as it pulls in the die and you end up with a very neat hole
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psrn3ap94f.jpg
apply, very carefully a half round file and open up the hole to the scribed line, then check n recheck with the light so as it's a snug fit in the hole
when happy with the fit drill the 3 holes 9/64" for the 3 fixing screws
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...pskrtuptwh.jpg
then the job is half finished as it's not wired into the loom as yet, but it looks the part
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps2vswdiau.jpg
anyway we will see what tomorrow brings, cheers Dennis

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As usual, excellent workmanship...

BUT... why is the drivers side guard 'resting" in the tub :confused:

(I meant to ask, are the front blinkers also clearance/parking lights?
I like the idea of white glass and a parker light and a yellow/orange blinker light fitted in there also so just wondering... (or maybe trafficators too?? ) )

great work Dennis.

Digger, I thought everyone's Series 1 had a RHS guard sitting in the tub LOL, well it's there until I get around to connecting all the wires from the headlight dim/switch/horn button on the steering wheel, and all the other sundry wires that need to go into the junction box, and it's a tad easier if the RHS guard is not fitted.
I have fitted H4 headlights with the park/clearance lights in the H4's, the front blinkers are situated where the front park/clearance light used to be, as I didn't want to cut any extra holes in the front guards, cheers Dennis

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Why did you use a fastener type that was not invented until long after the Series 1 was built rather than the screw/nut/washer/spring washer used at that time? (Not criticism, just seeking to understand reasons for doing things.)

John

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Because he's used the screw/nut/washer/spring washer method before and now values his sanity? :angel:

oops, didn't see all the extra posts

I'm playing around with the wiring again today,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psibim8hpw.jpg
mainly the wiring that supplies power for the lights n horn, the loom runs down the tube in the center of the steering column.
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...psw81o5jbt.jpg
I have an intermittent fault that I thought I had fixed, when dipping the lights from Lo<<>>Hi beam the switch seems to malfunction with no power transfer to the connector for the Hi beam, has anyone had this issue before and if so how did you fix the problem, also where does the excess wire route around, as I would not like to try and reroute it after it's all connected, cheers Dennis

I struggle to imagine Wombat ever looking that good. Well done (maybe you deserve some dodgy wiring as punishment :angel:)