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Should be on the plate centre of the bulkhead(firewall) inside the cab. If that's missing then see the right hand front spring shackle bracket. Nice truck love the colour LOL. It's a 107 if its a 54 and has the early horn button on the centre hub ( don't Break it ). It should do up pretty well and end up looking like mine. Are you going to do a full restoration or get her mechanicaly A1 and leave the original patina. I will post a pick from the Workshop manual about the numbers.
Mike:)
2 pics from introduction page of the workshop manual and the third is the chassis engine etc numbers for 1954 models from the front of the w/shop manual. You may have to save them and then enlarge them. You will need to get this book and also the parts book. I downloaded the parts book online and you can also get it from good book stores that specialise in car manuals. I have a genuine W/shop manual part number 4291 printed in 1960. You can get these on Ebay now and then. This will save you many hours work and much frustration some of which you may already be encountering LOL.
Mike:)
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Legend, thanks Mike.
Some frustration, but mainly confusion.. Lol
The number on the plate inside the cab is 277600844.
I ignored this initially as CalVIN identified it as a 2A... now I found a website that says this is a correct series 1 number.
Can anyone confirm the year for me?
I'm not really into full "nuts and bolts" resto's and will be keeping as much of the patina as possible - including the old pocket watch attached to the dash. :)
I'll get it back to chassis and running gear and get that sorted first, then build her back up from there.
I like the look of the history they carry with a few scars just like their owners LOL. Your number is a bit of worry in 1954 ( first year of the 107) the chassis numbers started at 47200001 and ended at 47730001. in 1955 they went from 57200001............. aahaaaaaahhhaaa in 1955 they threw in a few 277's here it is 274600001 to 277600001. So its a 55 107 CKD R.H.D.
I will add a pic of the 1955 numbers from the manual. Check out my old girl in "Another Series1" I have fitted long range tanks and a few other bits are on there way this week including a new rear frame and canvas canopy ,the Fairey overdrive and maybe even a capstan winch and almost forgot parabolic springs and air bags.:)
looks like a good project
'55, thanks mate!
Yeah I was reading through your thread the other day, I hope I can do a trip like that at some stage.
Nice truck too. :)
I've got an extra long weekend, so will start removing the rest of the panels today - pics this arvo.
I got quite a bit done today, took all the front panels off, removed the fuel tank, de-crapped the inside of the cab and found the hiding numbers.
Still no nasty rust surprises which is nice.
The fuel tank appears to be in excellent condition.
Love the internal light made from a can. :D
The engine will need new Welch plugs, one is completely gone.
Are these hard to do?
What is the best way to clean the inside of the water jacket?
hi you need ally thredded 1inch plugs you can get from cox turner uk or go to the local plumbing shop and get 1 inch stop ends steel give the threads a good clean out good luck jimQuote:
Originally Posted by ashhhhh
That engine number is a 1955 but should have ended up in a export LHD if you look to the workshop manual. Mine is a 58 but has a 56 gearbox and 57 engine. Hows the bulkhead behind the the double panels behind the fuel pump and oppisite and under the screen rubber. If you need rubbers theyt are available from the UK and i want some as well.:)
Mike
Hi Mike and AshQuote:
Originally Posted by Defender Mike
I will be needing for HECter ( '55 SWB ) a left and right panel for the firewall, the top of the foot well where it meets the vertical panel, I will in the meantime investigate a couple of sheet metal shops here in Tassie for folding up panels and those foot wells sections.
The rubbers for; above and below the windscreen .
Could you let us know if you find a place to obtain these at a reasonable price?
Interesting point here, look at the wear on the clutch pedal and the lack of wear on the brake pedal, it may have been built up with weld sometime in the past, but it does look original.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1225325895.jpg
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