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I filled the water jacket with the acid today and it's currently pickling.
While I wait for that, and all my plugs, gaskets and other parts, I thought I'd tidy up some bodywork.
As mentioned, I'll be leaving its original patina. I'm happy with the result and reckon it'll look prey cool.
My Dunsfold order arrived today, wow this old stock is great. Almost too good to unwrap!
I drained the acid out this afternoon, and punched the Welch plugs... wow.. it was packed with sludge.
I would say at least half it's volume was rust and mud. ???
The acid did a good job though, after a blast with some water it is 100% better.
I'll probably repeat the process and call it good.
The head is difficult to fill while fitted to the motor, I think I'll rebuild the one off my spare engine and swap them if there are any problems.
I'm after opinions on the radiator, is it worth trying to clean them at home (same acid soak) or should I just get a pro to deal with it?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/10/343.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/10/344.jpg
(I'm after opinions on the radiator, is it worth trying to clean them at home (same acid soak) or should I just get a pro to deal with it)
I would get a radiator shop to do it. They will be able to unsolder the top and bottom tanks, rod all the cores, soldier any damaged or leaking cores then re solder the tanks and finish it off with a coat of paint.
I personally would get someone else to do them but they might cost a few bob
Hi,
When I restored my 61 Series 2 - I took my radiator to a local guy, he tested it and it needed a re-core. By the time that he unsolder'd the top and bottom tanks, replaced the core, re-solder the tanks and finish it off with a coat of paint - it cost me $500.
Yes it was a lot of money, and I had considered just buying a new radiator but I had read about poor quality radiators and wanted to keep it original.
When restoring my 60 Series 2 - I took the radiator to the same guy. This time all it needed was testing, a flush and a coat of paint - it cost me $100
I would like to think that both radiators will last another 50 years now - and outlive me.
I think that it's worth it for peace of mind, but that's just my opinion.
I had a look at a radiator in a ex - Army 2A LWB yesterday that has just been re-cored, it had cost $600.00 to be done.Quote:
Originally Posted by grey_ghost
That difference in price would be the cost of freight across Bass Strait. :mad:
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Yeah ive been quoted $500 for other vehicles, biggest wrought ever I reckon. :mad:
Ill see what he says I guess, looking inside it looks pretty good - looks can be deceiving I guess.
I'm still gradually cleaning out this water jacket, what a job.. :banghead:
While waiting for the acid to do it's thing I got the buffer out again.
Got the doors and roof done.
I also stripped the bulkhead and the front panel, ready for blasting.
I've decided I will clean the radiator myself initially and see how it goes, I filled it with the same acid - it does not react with brass or copper and is great on scale.
I then investigated one of the ute tub toolbox and discovered.... A Fairey OD!! :D
Unfortunately it's had some water in it, the mainshaft is pitted and would need replacing, haven't disassembled the rest yet.
Parts are very dear, I reckon it would cost at least 800 to get it sorted. I've always wanted one for my S3, is it worth doing it up or better off going for a RoverDrive etc?
roverdrive are the best but are about 2.2k for a sseries I think, you could probably pick up a good fairey OD for $500 if you do not want to bother with yours. It really depends if you need new gears. I personally if you were going to look at roverdrive prices go with a cheaper overdrive and fit disc brakes.