Axel info urgent

I have never actually done it (never owned a fully floating S1!) but what I would be inclined to do is to make the spacer from a full circle drive flange, turn out the centre enough for the axle at least, and on the original outside turn out a socket to match the flange on the actual drive flange - this will ensure accurate alignment. I would probably use the spider type you have at the moment as the drive flange, but it does not really matter.

Note that you also need to source longer BSF bolts for the flange plus spacer.

John

I'm hoping united parts that took over all the Britt Parts stock have a Series 1 109 axel amongst the several hundred they tell me they have on the shelf. They have offered me a very good deal on these they want to clear the space. I spoke with Barry about his axels but the freight costs are a bit prohibitive. Considering I'm driving to the Gold Coast I can get a set of his when I arrive. :)

Hi Mike

I didn't realise you had this thread running and this info was already posted.

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Get yourself a pair of new 2A halfshafts and fit both of them.

You will need a pair of spacers made up to fit the longer replacements and they can be made by machining out the centre of a old driving flange.

Find a pair of used / worn driving flanges, maybe it's a good time to replace the ones on yours anyway and fit some new ones.

The bolts need to be replaced also with ones that have a shank that is longer by the same thickness of the spacers.
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As you have the diff out I would at least visually inspect the carrier for cracks ( using the kero wash down and baby power method is one way ).

A lot of work, but if the differential was being rebuilt with new bearings etc, a easy way the carrier can be tested for cracks, is to hang the bare carrier on a piece of wire and giving it a light tap with a hammer it will ring like a bell, if there are any cracks it won't ring and sound instead like a dull clunk.

Check the thrust washers are in good condition they sit between the inside of the carrier and the sun gears.

Thrust washer . .040" 07902
------ " ----- . .045" 07904
------ " ----- . .050" 50139

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...14/10/1501.jpg

Hi Arthur,
I should have taken you up on that offer when I first got Borumbah . I have ended up getting a Hi a Tough axel sent over from Barry. This was not the cheapest but the quickest option. It should arrive by lunch today. I have the diff back in and the short axel. The diff looks great no marks or pitting I would say it's been reconditioned at some stage. I would post a photo but that seems to be playing up at the moment . Every time I try and load a pic the screen locks on that page and won't let me go back to my post.
Mike:)

If you are only replacing 1 halfshaft I would make sure you pick up a second hand one for the other side - or even make up a temporary spare by cutting down your broken axle and welding the cut end to a machined drive flange.

You can insert a pin from a roller bearing needle into the joint before welding if you are worried about the weld failing.

I will get one on the way I know of a spare on the way to Kalgoolie.

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Originally Posted by Defender Mike

Hi guys,
I think I just broke an axel on Boorumbah my 1958 109 inch. She has full floating axels and when I engaged 4wd I was able to drive home. There was no bang no clunk. Just loss of drive the tail shaft moves but the car doesn't. Now I seem to remember Series 2 Axels fit but not sure if that's with or without a spacer. I haven't pulled the axel out yet as it's up getting new tyres fitted this morning. If I fit series 2 axels do I have to replace both of them ? Is it the long side that breaks or the short side? How do I get the broken piece out ?
Any helpful advice appreciated I was about to head off over East in the old Girl on Friday so I'm glad it happend here not on the Nullabor . Trying to get her mobile again ASAP. :o
Mike

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long fully floating shaft here jim

Well the axel went in ok all good headed off East yesterday got as far as Norseman about 800 ks . The ignition light started to come on and stay on then go out again. Pulled into Norseman put on the brake nothing pedal to the floor. A bit of down shifting and overshoot the turnoff finally rolled to a stop. Found a cracked brake line right rear where it goes into the salve cylinder. Fitted new line and bleed all good. I pulled of the generator fitted new fan belt light still intermittent but battery is charging 14 volts when motor running. Drove 400 ks in daylight no problem but at night the lights started to dim then fade out altogether. Now in Park area 12ks from Cockelbiddy won't start flat battery. I hope to get a jump in the morning. I'm sure it's the regulator will try and run a new earth wire tomorrow .mif I play around with the regulator the ignition light goes out but as soon as I drive off it comes on again.
Hope I can fix it enough to either get to Port Lincoln where Peter has quite a few spares or to Wilmington and see Dave or even Adelaide Ian has lots of bits as well.
Mike:o

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Originally Posted by Defender Mike

Hope I can fix it enough to either get to Port Lincoln where Peter has quite a few spares or to Wilmington and see Dave or even Adelaide Ian has lots of bits as well.

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Hi Mike


Call ahead and buy another N70Z Battery and get them to top the charge up on the one in the Land Rover over night. Two fully charged batteries should get you to where you can get a auto electrician to test your regulator and sort it.
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Did you pull the generator apart when you had it off? Were the brushes stuck or too short? Did you clean the comutator? Was the rear bush worn?
For a generator to work, it needs to be able to motor. First check the field current. It should be around 1.5 - 2.5 amps. Then check the armature current. With field applied, the armature current should be 2 - 6 amps. If it gets much above 8 amps, the insulation in the armature windings is probably getting poor.
If the generator won't motor well, it won't generate well.
Aaron