I am very interested in doing this process before galvanizing.
I am very keen to see how it comes up once scrubbed down.
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I am very interested in doing this process before galvanizing.
I am very keen to see how it comes up once scrubbed down.
I envy your success with the firewall with molasses.
I have used it a couple of times and it did not work for me so have given up on it.
I have tried various strengths - 10:1 down to 2:1 and other than stinking the place out for a month the rust is always still there.
I have found mechanical removal and then rust converter is the go.
Garry
How strange! Sometimes molasses is sold in semi-diluted form, which is apparently so it is easier to mix with chaff, but even so it should have worked at 2:1.Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
By contrast I have never had a failure with molasses in the last 11 years :)
Cheers Charlie
I found that my molasses bath only really worked well in the warmer temps during winter it didn't do much but come spring it worked very well indeed.
Could be that failure is associated with living in a relatively cool place like Canberra?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Landy
We have 3 lots of molasses going at present. The first was a sort of trial which has been used to clean all sorts of items, pedals, brake lines, mechanical parts, brake parts..., the second is a larger tub which had the firewall in it which took about 3 weeks and is now loaded with a heap of loose spring leaves which I was given and shackle / bolts and a bunch of spare parts I bought at am auction sale. Both these are working very well, frothing away and leaving an imprint on the surface 2 days after putting in an item.
When I remove items, I wash the parts individually, then dry with a blow dryer, then stabalise with phosphoric acid, then dry clean and coat with Penetrol. In the case of the firewall I used a clear POR15 product, which I will also use on the chassis, I am now rubbing back the firewall with 1000 wet'n'dry and will recoat with a flat clear coat as I don't like the gloss finish but am impressed with the POR15 rust protection - not sure what to use yet as a clear coat, I will experiment.
The ground pit is working the slowest of all and I think this is associated with the temperature. When I opened it up today, there was a full chassis outline on the surface, and there was bubbling but the action wasn't near as rapid as in the other two. I rubbed the rusty surface and a lot of the corrosion came off immediately, but the process is nowhere complete.
Erich
I am watching with interest .....great pics and write up !
A product which may be of interest is Ankor Wax , I have used with great success on my cars , they claim it will last 5 years in the Antarctic as a rust/corrosion inhibitor .
I have coated inside , upside and outside of an old valiant as I didn't want to change the patina of the car ....It can be buffed to a high shine if required or left as a satin finish . It's great stuff , I have also used on my old caravan and camper , it resists stone chipping - wouldn't recommend it for the gun barrel hwy tho !
Cheers
I do not think that lasting five years in the Antarctic is any recommendation - for rust to progress it needs to have mobility of ions on the surface - and once the moisture is frozen the mobility of ions is several orders of magnitude less than it is for liquid water. Temperatures in Antarctica rarely are above freezing anywhere, and even then only for brief periods. In addition, any chemical processes, including rusting, slow as temperature drops.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rextheute
It seems to me that referring to how well it works in Antarctica is misleading advertising, and, while it does not mean the product is necessarily no good, it certainly suggests that it is.
John
Their own website suggests 18 months uncovered outside.
Don.
The 51 model we are restoring was missing a lot of the running gear - we had front and rear axle housings and front swivels and front diff but no hubs, brake backing plates. tail shafts, ............ and I have been trolling the internet and wreckers for ideas.
Yesterday we decided to go on a 2 day road trip out in the bush, with a few places in mind but doing a lot of 80inch exploration. We did very well having found a number some which are for sale. It seems when ever you ask someone, either they of a friend has one or has had one in the past. Yesterday evening we were having a beer at a pub and the publican told us about 4 in the area 2 of which we now intend to buy, basically to save them. We will have to plan the pick up as both are missing a set of hubs and are in a difficult location to extract,
On the way back home we called in at a scrap metal recycler at Temora (after a tip off) and bought this basically for scrap value
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/11/272.jpg
This has had the most damage done to any 80 inch I have seen and is missing heaps
The roll bar and bullbar are welded on
The front guards have been cut and rerivited
The bonnet has a patched hole
The rear tow bar bracket has bits welded to it
The roof - not otiginal I think - has had the front edge hacked off
The chassis has been altered for a Holden motor
The drivers door skin is steel????????
no engine/radiator/ dash /
etc
etc
So there is not that much to salvage, but I can get all my missing bits and a few spares for down the track. At the end of the day, the car was going to scrap.
I can see a lot more daylight on the restoration now
Erich