Me too. Would love some piccies of the project.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon
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Me too. Would love some piccies of the project.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon
Yes please!! Here's a shot of what I've made to link the Series Handbrake lever to the LT230...Quote:
Originally Posted by AV8R
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sitec
Sitec,
Thanks a lot for the photo. What handbrake drum did you use? The standard Series drum or the standard LT230 drum?
I'll soon need to consider how to mount my S1 drum to the LT230 and use a standard S1 handbrake lever arrangement (or an X-Eng unit and make an adapter for the S1 lever) - I dont have enough space to for the standard & wider LT230 drum.
I'll be happy to make a couple of pics but you have to be a little patient. I won't see the 88 until thursday. Being halfway around the world that may very well be friday to you :)
To wet yours apetite here's two pics of the adapterplate I made to go in between the Ford bellhousing and the LT77.
Hi JonQuote:
Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon
The space issue is a problem, however were you aware that a number of members have removed the X-Eng handbrake because of failures?
Another problem is that the X-Eng caliper sits to the rear of the rotor which increases your space problem. I was addressing this issue by using a Maserati Bi-Turbo rotor, however I have found that one of the Toyota Corona rear rotors is actually a better match to our needs. It is closer to the thickness of the X-Eng rotor and the top-hat offset is greater than the Maserati rotor. This means that you can bring the caliper forward, over the top of the LT230 output.
I am also considering making a nut plate to fit on the transfer case side of the rear output flange. This way I will be able to use bolts instead of the original studs, which protrude into the cross member. Your 86 probably won't have the same problem because of the different shape of the cross member.
Your obviously a lot further down this road than I am Diana! Im just thinking about the problem and possible solutions - haven't actually got to offering anything upto the cross member yet!Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
Are the failures on the Defender (LT230) version or on the Series version? I have had the X-Eng Defender version on my Defender for 6 or 7 years now and its excellent, the only time it ever fails is if I get an oil leak and the disc gets covered in oil! In fairness though you usually get ample warning that the disc / pads are getting oily.
When thinking about the X-Eng route I had thought that it would probably be easier to adapt the series version to the LT230 rather than the LT230 (Defender) version to the S1 hand-brake lever. I think the main difference is the PCD and stud pattern and I suspect I could turn up an ally adapter plate on the lathe. I also haven't discounted turning up an adapter plate for the standard S1 drum, I think I can just about squeeze that in, but will need to do some careful measuring...
Do you have any photos of the Corona calliper arrangement?
How will your nut plate work? Replace the M16 nut that holds the splined flange in place?
Hi Jon
The problem for any of the drum brakes is that you have to have room behind the drum so you can remove it. With a disk brake its merely lifting the calliper off the rotor or dropping in new pads.
If you think about your X-Eng brake it is a flat rotor, so sits in the same alignment as the rear prop shaft flange. Then consider the shape of the rear output of the LT230 which protrudes to the rear of the main housing to incorporate the speedo drive.
My plan is to use a top hat style rotor so it still bolts onto the original flange but the braking face of the rotor is moved closer to the T/F housing allowing the calliper to move forward (away from the cross member behind the transmission). The position of the rotor/calliper will be close to the position of the backing plate for the original drum system.
The issues for the X-Eng failure seemed to be related to adjustment running out without warning, so may be a maintenance issue rather that a failure in the design, although it is still a concern.
Back to the nut plate, the idea is that I machine up a large threaded ring with threaded holes in the same place as the studs. The ring would be secured onto the t/f box side of the output flange where the captive bolt heads are usually located. The ring would be secured in position by counter-sunk screws from the other side. This would allow me to undo and retract the prop shaft without the studs poking through the big hole in the cross-member, which will prevent the box dropping down for removal. (Remember unlike your Defender or 86" the Series 109 and SIIB chassis have a hole through the cross member for the propshaft to pass through an preventing the front of the shaft dropping onto the ground. AFAIK this was a requirement of UK regulations of the 1950s and 1960s)
Took some pics today of the two levers that operate my LT230 like it is supposed to be. Yellow for 2/4WD. Red for HI/LOW range.
Handles are in 2WD HI, 4WD HI, 4WD LOW taken from the RHside. One topview.
View from the passengers side. View from the drivers side. Last picture shows some but not all off the levers, links and support that were used to achieve a functional 2/4WD system. Hi/Low was fairly easy using a shortened cover from an LT230 and its shift lever to weld the Redknoblever to.
Hope this will steer you in the right direction.
AV8R, thats brilliant!
I was going to use the standard LT230 mount and stick position... Im thinking twice now!
Thanks for posting.
Jon