still tread light with the pressure washer Mate - just in case the wrapping 'aint as good as you think it is.
cheers,
D
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still tread light with the pressure washer Mate - just in case the wrapping 'aint as good as you think it is.
cheers,
D
My aim will be to get the water anywhere but on that engine, even if I have to push her out and do it again once I've got the engine and gearbox out. Stupidly optimistic aren't I.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark61
Ooo ****, that's another expense, I need access to an engine crane - just for the day hopefully. I'm guessing that'll need some careful planning.
Engine stand? Block of wood and concrete floor for the forseeable future I'm afraid.
stuff like the engine stand / crane etc is on my list as I have two chassis up restores + one running (just) so I guess I'll get more than the one use out of it*. Also - the bil does a lot on cars, buying and selling so I reckon I can lend out the stuff in return for some knowledge.
cheers,
D
*I'll buy them and they'll probably just lay there gathering dust!
Kennards Hire have engine cranes and stands
Phil
Didn't get a whole lot done (that translates to 'nuffin' :angel:) today but feeling guilty, and knowing I'll have to address this before painting, I had a look at the rear chassis cross member on the driver's side.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1441521006
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1441520994
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1441521017
As you can see, she's taken a decent thump at some point. Now I have to straighten it out - I guess I could leave it for 'heritage sake', but it'd be nice to fix it.
Apart from the obvious surface rust, there's no rot so replacing it is overkill. I gave it a few desultory whacks with a heavy hammer and did no more than shake some of the surface flakes loose - this'll need heavy duty techniques.
Any thoughts on how I'm going to straighten this out?
There's no rush as I have to wash the chassis, get the motor and gearbox out, then start cleaning up and painting the chassis and it could be argued that this can be left till last, so if you have a good idea, feel free to suggest it until you see photos that show I've done the job... and that could be the other side of Christmas.
Thanks
The LHS back outrigger on my series 3 was in a similar condition when I got it, but I went down the replacement path. Lopped the old bit off right at the chassis, mocked up a new one in cardboard then cut some bits of 2mm plate up, ran them through a mates folder, the welded them together. I then welded it onto the chassis - just with my old arc welder, ground the welds back, then as I was going for a very clean look, put a smear if bog over it and painted it. The result is -
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...psd16fe75a.jpg
Cripes, you've done a good job, well done.
Sadly, I don't have a welder and can't weld even if I did so it'd be something I'd have to farm out. Still, that's probably the best option. Thanks for posting.
Failing that, you may need a couple of trees, some chain and a tirfor. It will take 3 times the force that caused that bend to remove it. If you can borrow an oxy torch you will have more luck.
That's what I feared... and that cross member is welded on isn't it, so it's not even a simple unbolt it and take it to the metal fabricator job. No oxy torch on hand either.
On the other hand, not so far down the track, I'll have the motor and gearbox out which should lighten the thing enough to go on a car trailer and still remain under the weight limit for my little car. That way I can pay my local fabricator to do it.
Anyone got a tame gorilla who likes field trips?
I had one slightly worse in my s1 and put a crowbar down and bent it back.