Getting an 80" going - engine rebuild

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Originally Posted by klonk

Klonks cam has 1mm worn off the top of a couple of the lobes, so that makes quite a difference to the lift of the valve.

Alex at the series one shop can get them re ground but he is finding it hard to get cams that aren't too badly worn.

I've found a second hand 1600 engine for sale, condition unknown . So I don't know whether it's worth the risk or do I save the money and put it into Klonks engine.

Steve

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Metal spraying then regrinding might be an option but I dread to think of the cost.

DCL Surface Engineering - Thermal Spray Coatings - Arc Spray - HVOF - PTA - Flame Spray - Gas Wire - DCL Engineering Group

Possibly worthwhile if you had a batch of them done.


Colin

Many thanks all. Looks like the plan is to get the engine out and how it looks after a good clean and strip down. Might take the front guards off at the same time and see how the front chassis looks too.

The other complicating factor is that a few bits (carby, a piston and conrod, distributor, generator) are missing. Of these, only the piston and conrod are an issue. I can source a replacement but it feels like bad practice trying to mix a random odd piston in with the others if I'm going to the trouble.

cheers
Phin

I've also put up a wanted ad for a running 2 litre on the off chance that there's one out there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by phin

Many thanks all. Looks like the plan is to get the engine out and how it looks after a good clean and strip down. Might take the front guards off at the same time and see how the front chassis looks too.

The other complicating factor is that a few bits (carby, a piston and conrod, distributor, generator) are missing. Of these, only the piston and conrod are an issue. I can source a replacement but it feels like bad practice trying to mix a random odd piston in with the others if I'm going to the trouble.

cheers
Phin

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Taking the guards off will make it easier to get the engine out.

If you do fit an odd piston you need to balance the piston/rod assemblies.

John

Quote:

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Originally Posted by klonk

Klonks cam has 1mm worn off the top of a couple of the lobes, so that makes quite a difference to the lift of the valve.

Alex at the series one shop can get them re ground but he is finding it hard to get cams that aren't too badly worn.

I've found a second hand 1600 engine for sale, condition unknown . So I don't know whether it's worth the risk or do I save the money and put it into Klonks engine.

Steve

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When I rebuilt the 1600 Tickford engine and again the 2000 siamese Royal engine I had both the cams reground. That worked well. The 2000 sounds a little bit better than the 1600 though, it may be because I fitted new camshaft bearings to it or it may be the new liners and matching pistons. Seems to run smoother with less ticking.

Keith

Thanks - sounds like it will be hard to know more until the engine is out and clean. will get some diesel into the bores to free up the pistons in the meantime.

This guy has got some camshafts if someone is looking

LAND ROVER SERIES 1 CAM SHAFTS | Engine, Engine Parts & Transmission | Gumtree Australia Hawkesbury Area - Colo Heights | 1051283631

Thanks Bundy - will see how mine looks then might get onto the ad.

Well it took a while but the fun begins... Engine should be coming out tomorrow morning.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/10/455.jpg

The left hand dumb iron is worse than I remember though. Do you think I can get it stretched back or will I need a new dumb iron?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/10/440.jpg

cheers
Phin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by phin

Do you think I can get it stretched back or will I need a new dumb iron?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/10/440.jpg

cheers
Phin

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Make a new one - they are only four pieces of 2mm sheet, welded together at the corners.

Take the shape of the sides from the good one and transfer the shape to pieces of thin cardboard. The top and bottom can be tacked at the crossmember end and then bent and tacked in stages until they reach the front. Don't forget to put crush-tubes where the bumper bolts on.

Anyway, leave this job until the chassis is stripped and then you can check the dimensions of the entire chassis. I made a jig which fitted into the shackle eyes on the chassis to help locate the new dumb-iron.

If you want more detailed instructions, PM me with your email address and I can send you a Word.doc on how I did mine,

Cheers Charlie