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Thread: Kath S1 1958 88 inch Restoration

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Cairns
    Posts
    151
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrinklearthur View Post
    My approach to clean those water jackets out while you can get at them, would be to fashion a scraper out of a piece of fencing wire with a hook bent on the end , scratch out the water ways and then hose out any loosened rubbish.

    Change all the 'Welch' plugs and don't forget that one at the back of the engine.

    The intake manifold is water heated and I have seen those corrode through from the water galley into the airway, 'beware' as that will hydraulic lock the piston, work out some way of pressure testing the water galley.

    You will need a new fat 'O' ring between the water pump and the thermostat housing. .
    Many thanks Arthur. I will try and give the channels a clean. I dont have the engine our - so I might leave the plugs for now. I am doing a full chassis up restorartion of a S2a once that is done I will do the same on the S1. I am just trying to get the S1 in running condition at the moment.

    Is the fat O ring specific to the LR S1 or would repco or another parts shop be able to supply one? Many thanks Scott


    As for the colour of the water pump, paint will stop the rust, but if you want to keep the metal look, use some clear lacquer.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Cessnock NSW
    Posts
    4,990
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    I did a small remedial job this morning for Scott, he is coming to my place tomorrow to pick up a set of front springs for this Series 1.
    I had got them out of storage and noticed that the nut on the center bolt had fretted away, so I thought it might be best if I removed the offending bolt and replaced it with a hex/head bolt so as to eliminate the possibility of the spring being dropped in transit and flying apart, thus losing a couple of the springs, which would then render the spring as useless, so I cut off the nut using a cold chisel (very sharp one at that) center dot the bolt using 3 different sized drills I drilled out the offending bolt, here is an image of the spring with 3 leaves off, you can see the bolt with a small hole in it

    here is what is left of the bolt after I drifted it out using a pin punch

    I ran over the leaves exposed using a flap disc on my angle grinder, lightly lubed the leaves with grease, and re-assembled it using a 5/16" UNF bolt

    I'm sure Scott didn't mind me doing this for him, at least that spring wont get damaged in transit, cheers Dennis

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Southern Adelaide
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    Thanks. I'll be doing this soon, though I expect to be giving my springs a coat of paint as well.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Cessnock NSW
    Posts
    4,990
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    A whirlwind visit by Scott this morning, he arrived in Sydney before the chaos (storm) motored up the M1 to our place, looked over my wrecks/junk, assessed what he needed from Bunnings to facilitate the easy handling of the springs when deposited @ the airport, it was all over in a about 1hour 15 minutes and he was gone, back to the chaos around the airport, I didn't even have time to have a cup of tea/coffee with him LOL anyway here's hoping he made it back without any difficulties, cheers Dennis
    ps sorry for your thread hi-jack Scott,,.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Cairns
    Posts
    151
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    Five years on

    Well its been a long time since my last post. The LR has been sitting waiting for me to get going for about 5 years. I was based in Rockhampton and had a very large shed to work in. Most of my time went into my 2a restoration project. At the beginning of 2019 we retired and returned to our home in Cairns. I now only have a double garage to work in - half of which has to be used for my wife's car. So sadly I had to sell my 2a project. I only had room for the S1 in Cairns.

    The lock down was the motivation I needed to get on with the project. So I have removed a lot from the truck. I still have the engine and bulkhead in place. I am waiting for some HT wire so that I can make up some ignition leads and try and get the engine started while it is still in place. Once I have done that I will get it and get the chassis and bulkhead sand blasted and welded. And then the rebuild begins. Its good to be back!Start 3 28 04 2020.jpgstrip down 1.jpg

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Cairns
    Posts
    151
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    Chassis not too bad

    On the whole the chassis is not too bad. need new gear box cross member, fuel tank outriggers and the curved outrigger on the driver side. I have sourced these and they are on the way. I need to do repairs on the rear cross member outriggers. Hopefully there won't be too many other horrors once the sand blasting has been done.outrigger.jpgout rigger 3.jpgoutrigger 2.jpgout rigger 4.jpgrear cross member.jpg

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Cairns
    Posts
    151
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    Rear spring bushes removed

    Difficult job done without too many problems. Removal of rear spring bushes. Used large clamp/press to press out the inner sheath and rubber. Then used reciprocating saw to cut through outer sheath. picture shows all the tools used and the spring hanger with slight nick in it after removal.
    tools used.jpgbush 3.jpgbush 2.jpgbush 1.jpg

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kuranda FNQ
    Posts
    220
    Total Downloaded
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    Your garage looks like a tight spot to be working in - good luck!

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