LANDY'S LAST RESTORATION BY ME

First job was to spray hubs with CRC.
2nd job cut the trees down while the CRC soaked in.
3rd job get the axles out.
You were right again Keith I did work it out. Once I had a look at the P3 axel assembly , could see what to do.
1st remove wheels .
2nd get a large sledge hammer . I could see the bearing hub was about 1.5 mm larger than the diff housing flange., so all that was required was a sharp hit in the edge3 of the flange of the bearing housing.
3rd Out they come.:banana::banana::banana::banana:

I have just read the last couple of posts Wayne and I can see that you have got one of them out, to be honest I have not had the displeasure of playing with that type of axle assembly, my 1st Series 1 had fully floating rear end (S1 type) I'm looking around ATM for a S2 88" rear diff/housing just in case LOL anyway I hope the other side comes off without too much trouble, cheers Dennis :)

Thanks Dennis ,
They booth came out once I worked out what to do. I had used Permantex ( this is probably spelt wrong) on it last time & you know what it is like when you try to pull 2 sheets of wet glass apart , if you can slide them side ways they will let go . The flange on the diff is recessed into the bearing hub so you can't knock it sideways .
Pulled M/Cyl & wheel cyl's apart today they only need kits, rear linings & hand brake linings socked in gear oil ( H/B linings were original 66 years old , need mask & gloves it handle them :o) Also need rear flexible hose & 2 rear brake pipes ( fittings were seized on pipes) :mad:
I found some new rear axel seals in the parts I got off Kev Baker. :D

I am glad I don't have to replace the bearings I remember last time it was a pig of a job .

I got a bit more done today.

1st I pulled the PTO out the back of the box to check the out put shaft nut was tight & it was :D . I've had three 80"'s now & all three the nut was loose.

2nd job was to go & collect the brake parts & shoes I had relined then cleaned up & painted the hand brake backing plate & drum. I also replaced the 5/16 BSF bolts that hold the drum on. Once the paint had dried I bolted the backing plate on & fitted the new shouse & refitted the drum. ( I forgot to take any photo's of this bit):mad:

3rd job was to remove all the bits that needed painting black & cleaned & re painted them. The Gear Box is now ready to go back in.

4th job was to clean up the Master Cylinder & fit the new kit I had PU in the morning . After assembly I gave it a coat of black .

OPP'S I forgot to click on the upload button. :o Here are the photo's. For those who noticed the shim washer that goes under the large cup. I did put the shim washer in , I had it soaking in metho when I took the photo. I will fit the new dust boot when the paint is dry.

I also pulled the top off the box & removed the selector shafts to replace the seals.
Also last year I was having trouble with my starter locking up & a bought a good S/H starter & fitted it thinking my old one needed over hauling.
I got it out today to have a look at it & found the pin through the nut on the end of the shaft had come out so when I pressed the solenoid button the nut would wind off the thread & push the armature back locking it up. I tightened the nut & fitted a roll pin , cleaned up & painted my original starter today.
Now I will be able to fit my original starter with correct date stamping 10/49 :D

BUGGER , did it again , here are the photo's:D

I have a question .
Has any none ever bought one of these steering column to bulkhead grommets & fitted it, if so how did you go about fitting it? :confused: The rubber is very stiff & the top of the column is about twice as big as the hole in the grommet. I have a couple of friends that have bought them but could not get the rubber to stretch over the top of the column. They ended up cutting the grommet & were going to super glue it back together but found that the hole is also smaller than the shaft so there is about 5mm gap in the ends of the rubber.:mad:
I am not sure wether to order one or just leave it with the gap between the bulkhead & column as I have done for the last 27 years.:confused:

Nothing like rubber parts that don't fit, or disintegrate in a dark workshop :mad:

What about making a leather one?

Cheers Charlie

:idea:I may have to make up a tappered sleve & lube it with detergent & try to slide it down over the large part of the column. Not sure if the rubber will stretch that far.