read the date before replying Brent ;-)
You can - but the steering wheel would be several inches closer to you (it has been done). It is probably possible to get the shaft cut down and resplined, but it would not be cheap. (I wonder if it would be possible to get approval to cut the shaft part way down, take a bit out, and join it with a keyed sleeve and pinch bolts in grooves turned in the shaft. The machining on this would be a lot cheaper, I would think, although if someone has the correct broach for the steering wheel spline, shortening it should be reasonably cheap.)
John
Last edited by JDNSW; 30th January 2017 at 08:48 PM. Reason: More thoughts
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
read the date before replying Brent ;-)
Last edited by things_green; 27th January 2021 at 01:55 PM. Reason: whoops
As said you can fit the later boxes , you will also need the mounting bracket off the chassis . The problem with them is the bring the steering wheel 50mm closer to your chest.
What is wrong with your 53 steering box ?
I got new loose bearings for my 53 from the local push bike shop. top of column.
I used oil seal size 35x24x7, over the counter at the local bearing shop.
How I fixed the play on nut and worm explained here. S1 club forum.
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whitehillbilly
<br><br><br>Jeff,<br><br>I have just completed a total steering box rebuild of my 1953 80". I purchased two worm and nut sets from ICS in Birmingham and had them professionally welded to 80" steering shafts. I have used one of them in my 80" and I am very happy with the result. The steering has been transformed from a vague wandering tractor like horror into a quite an acceptablly steering vehicle. Apart from wear in the worm and nut, the fit of the rocker shaft peg in the nut, the fit of the nut in the steering box casting and the fit of the rocker shaft in its phosphor bronze bushes is critical if you want minimal play at the steering wheel rim. The top ball race will also need to be checked for wear and pitting. The ICS nut is oversize on its OD so that it can regain a snug fit in the alloy housing on your '53 80". Sometimes they are too worn and need to be replaced. <br>Suitable rocker bushes are available from Pacific Bronze. I got mine from Blackwoods. I filled the whole rocker shaft bore in the steering box to provide maximum support for the rocker shaft as they tend to move up and down if there is the slightest wear in the bushes. I think that the oringinal Burman bushes are a bit short and are somewhat overloaded in the Series 1. Probably OK in a lightweight Pommie car with skinny tyres! The bushes need to have to have oil grooves machined into them to allow oil all the way through to the back of the seal. PM me and I'll discuss parting with my spare worm and nut set. I also have a cast iron steeing box in good order that is a good fit with the ICS nut. I might even have some extra PB bronze bushes and a serviceable rocker shaft. How is yours, BTW, splines OK and no nasty wear on the peg and shaft surfaces?<br><strong>The steering relay is also very important in the scheme of things. Read up on them. They are very dangerous if not handled correctly. There is a <u>very</u> strong spring in them that can't wait to get out and shred your face and fingers etc!<br></strong><br>I hope that this is of some help Jeff. Mike, 5380<br><br><br>
steering box.jpgLR SB.jpg This is the best I have but with this if the nut & thread on the column is worn you are not going to get the play out of the wheel. Last time I priced a new nut & column they were $800 each that was 30 years ago. There are lots of other things in the steering linkages that will also cause excessive movement , tie rod ends & there clamps, pitman arms pinch bolts , steering relay & the bolts securing the arms to the swivel hubs. You need to go through everything & check & make sure all bolts are tight.
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