Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Are Engine Restore additives worth a try?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    299
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Are Engine Restore additives worth a try?

    Gentlemen,
    My 1953 Series 1 80" petrol blows a bit soot from the exhaust on start up, and this gets me into trouble with the boss, as it splatters her nicely painted garage wall with the black soot and this really hard to clean off. The engine runs really well but a bit on the smokey side, but not to bad, but I do understand she is nearly 64 years old!
    I have been reading up on Engine Restore Additives such as Nulon Stop Smoke, and their claims that it is being able to improve the value stem sealing and ring function, but have never used these type of products myself.

    Is it worth giving these a try? I fully understand that at best this will be a short term remedy only but I would be keen to hear from anyone who has any experience with these types of products in a petrol Land Rover.
    Many thanks in advance

    Jeff

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    15,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by jedwards View Post
    Gentlemen,
    My 1953 Series 1 80" petrol blows a bit soot from the exhaust on start up, and this gets me into trouble with the boss, as it splatters her nicely painted garage wall with the black soot and this really hard to clean up. It also runs a bit smokey, but not toto bad, but it is nearly 64 years old!
    I have been reading up on Engine Restore Additives such as Nulon Stop Smoke, and their claims that it is being able to improve the value stem seals and rings function, but have never used these type of products myself.

    Is it worth giving these a try? I fully understand that at best this will be a short term remedy but I would be keen to hear from anyone who has any experience with these types of products in a petrol Land Rover.
    Many thanks in advance

    Jeff
    I reckon they're worth a try as a short term fix for minor smoke, and have had some luck there, but soot? That will be a function of the choke, or probably the "cold start" on one that old. You probably won't get rid of that one, as it is unbunrt fuel. Even cars fifty years it's junior will do that. Hang an old bit of carpet or something behind the exhaust...
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,317
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I've used Cost effective product called Flushing Oil Concentrate to help with ring issues. Both petrol and diesel. May upset seals if they are borderline. Website suggests trying FTC decarboniser first. Add to fuel. I haven't personally used this product, only flushing oil concentrate and cleanpower; both work as advertised. Both FTC and AW10 are on my list to try though. Used flushing oil concentrate in TD5, 2L Toyota diesel and 1.6l laser petrol as well as 4 stroke push mower. Cleanpower in all engines - Hondas, TD5, Pajero, Hilux etc.
    However like others I'd suggest engine is running rich at start.
    Btw: My understanding is that non smoke additives typically thicken the oil and have some seal swelling chemicals. I haven't used these products in years and never in a reasonably good engine. If a main seal has gone then I might consider non smoke to extend time to repair.

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    28,805
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Soot in the exhaust is due to an excessively rich mixture. This will be either due to unsuitable use of the 'cold start' on the Solex (I assume it has the original engine and carburettor) or due to a fault with the carburettor, such as a leaking needle valve or float set too high. Possibly due to one or more cylinder not firing all the time, which could be anything from sparkplug, to HT lead, to leaking valve, or low compression due to rings.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    15,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Soot in the exhaust is due to an excessively rich mixture. This will be either due to unsuitable use of the 'cold start' on the Solex (I assume it has the original engine and carburettor) or due to a fault with the carburettor, such as a leaking needle valve or float set too high. Possibly due to one or more cylinder not firing all the time, which could be anything from sparkplug, to HT lead, to leaking valve, or low compression due to rings.
    Thx, it was the Solex I was trying to remember. But 'rich' is how they used to start, as you know. A bit of soot was to be expected on startup. It happened.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    390
    Total Downloaded
    0
    A friend and I have done a couple of petrol engines with good success using decarbonizer from "Cost Effective Maintenance"..
    We found it removes the carbon build up around the rings, thus allowing them to seal properly...
    Adding some Antiwear 10(AW10) to the oil afterwards, helps reduce friction...

    Its been said about being rich cold, pretty much right but a decarb will allow you to get a better tune and improve the ring life.. Bottom end bearings are another thing to worry about when decarbing, just be aware that a decarb cleans the whole intenals of the block thus gentle driving the same as running in a new engine...

    I have done a few truck engines and they loosen up extremely... Cummins 14ltr was 3 days work before it settled down, DDR14 Detroit took nearly a week and the C15 Cat was dancing in less than 2 days... All acted like they had been rebuilt except they felt loose in the mains... Performance and economy was well worth the flush out... And AW10 drops diff temps too...

    IMHO a series 1, drive it likes its old and enjoy it... If you can keep it going without adding or flush with fancy chemicals, it would be better...

    ps, Nulon and those types of additives, add a protective surface on metal parts, some of these can be a ba#$%rd to machine afterwards...

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!