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Thread: Tiny bit excited

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney NSW
    Posts
    353

    Good Point

    hard top just sitting on top not bolted. door tops removed so guess could pop them back on and check alignment they did open and close without rubbing i think. will check tomorrow. did some cleaning today, got two buckets one filled with coke the other soda carb + vinegar, i put the door hinge in one and the backing plate for the door hinge in the other to see what happens tomorrow. thinking of an efficient quick way of cleaning off paint over spray on these. thought of buying paint stripper and have used before they seem to be good as another option. cheers
    2011 Disco 4, TdV6 2.7L, Opp Lock bullbar, Mitch Hitch, RAI, rear drawers, auto steel pan, iidtool BT, Waeco CF40, Hankooks 265x65xr18, 2 way rods (not fitted), Redarc TowPro, Traxide dual battery with Optima, 160W LED light, UHF aerial.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    3,576
    Quote Originally Posted by shamirj View Post
    pic 1 - something wrong here, the hardtop does not fit well with the front screen, this is a 86inch wheelbase i measured today, but could this be a longer hardtop or has the w/screen rotated to far back. please help, the rear of the hardtop sits nice and plum

    pic 2 - d/side rear cross member seems so original, i know its the wrong cross member but has made me take another look, only bit non original is the two large bolts on main frame perhaps holding the cross member in place

    pic 3 - same pic but p/side again two large bolts on mainframe non original, but the square tubing used for the cross member again looks original

    pic 4 - rear cross member from rear view apart from the hole seems all original, what do you think needs to be cut out and replaced. help
    The rear crossmember looks home made.
    Along the bottom edge there are a series of short welds.

    Here is a rear view of a '56 86" Series I. Don't pay any attention to the hardtop because it's 'home made'.

    DSCF2520 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '60 SII 109 ute (gone)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney NSW
    Posts
    353

    update

    pic1 - started on bonnet, used steelo and some soapy water to clean up the surface, removed the two side bonnet latches, centre spare locator and the 4 rubber strips for the spare. just realised prob need primer/filler before paint as its just bare alum. also thinking to remove all rivets so that i can paint the frame and underside as well

    pic2 need some wire brushing on drill to side of chassis so painted with some left over paint/primer will prob do the chassis in silver bit by bit, steel wire brush is too aggressive so cleaning with metho and sand paper instead. some small holes need welding over when i get the chance

    pic3 close up of bonnet rivets some seem to be lifting from many years in use so thinking prob get rid of them all, would like the original rivets if not just normal rivets will be fine

    pic4 also did one of the door hinges (top one) just used wire brush, soaking in coke did nothing. prob need primer before painting as its raw steel with minor galvanise left on it. used some primer on the door and again needs filler as well, due to the many flaking layers of paint. still its a start
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2011 Disco 4, TdV6 2.7L, Opp Lock bullbar, Mitch Hitch, RAI, rear drawers, auto steel pan, iidtool BT, Waeco CF40, Hankooks 265x65xr18, 2 way rods (not fitted), Redarc TowPro, Traxide dual battery with Optima, 160W LED light, UHF aerial.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney NSW
    Posts
    353

    small update

    pic1 underside with frame removed from bonnet, did a quick cleanup and ready for primer/filler

    pic2 underside of bonnet spare, all with original solid rivets but one bolt would not undo when taken off shows a split pin inserted, Why? how were you supposed to remove the spare when required, cant be original surely

    pic3 bonnet sprayed with SCA spray can of filler/primer in one. looks good, the bonnet is the easiest to do really. just need to clean up the frame with wire brush quick over and then rivet on. prob go the normal hollow rivets instead. repair the bolt which wont undo on spare carrier and prob use the original bonnet hinges as they are and just replace the bolts with new.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2011 Disco 4, TdV6 2.7L, Opp Lock bullbar, Mitch Hitch, RAI, rear drawers, auto steel pan, iidtool BT, Waeco CF40, Hankooks 265x65xr18, 2 way rods (not fitted), Redarc TowPro, Traxide dual battery with Optima, 160W LED light, UHF aerial.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    S.E.Qld
    Posts
    875
    Why not get a workshop manual and a parts catalogue? It'll save you time and money. .W.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    3,576
    Quote Originally Posted by shamirj View Post
    underside of bonnet spare, all with original solid rivets but one bolt would not undo when taken off shows a split pin inserted, Why? how were you supposed to remove the spare when required, cant be original surely
    I think you need a manual as suggested.
    The bolts holding down the spare wheel should have clamps as in the picture below. The split-pins are to stop the bolts coming out & getting lost !




    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '60 SII 109 ute (gone)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney NSW
    Posts
    353

    bonnet almost done

    primed/filled/painted 2 coats of enamel green on underside and top of bonnet. pretty happy with quality of paint finish.
    before and after pics
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2011 Disco 4, TdV6 2.7L, Opp Lock bullbar, Mitch Hitch, RAI, rear drawers, auto steel pan, iidtool BT, Waeco CF40, Hankooks 265x65xr18, 2 way rods (not fitted), Redarc TowPro, Traxide dual battery with Optima, 160W LED light, UHF aerial.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney NSW
    Posts
    353

    bonnet windscreen brackets missing

    how come my S1 does not come with factory holes on the bonnet for the windscreen to rest on the bonnet clamps? just realised there are no additional holes for the brackets, i thought all S1 had the bracket for the windscreen to fold forward onto. just curious.

    todays effort was to take 3 spare tyres to the tyre fitters to have 3 tyres removed from the rim. 2 with loads of rubbish, water and rust, other 4 tyres on car for now. have one flat tyre which makes moving the LR around difficult so next maybe the tyres. there seems to be a common number stamped on the rims, wanting to make sure they are all series rims before going to effort to clean and paint. may do rims in silver colour to match chassis. btw rim removal and disposal was $8 each, not bad.
    2011 Disco 4, TdV6 2.7L, Opp Lock bullbar, Mitch Hitch, RAI, rear drawers, auto steel pan, iidtool BT, Waeco CF40, Hankooks 265x65xr18, 2 way rods (not fitted), Redarc TowPro, Traxide dual battery with Optima, 160W LED light, UHF aerial.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra Australia
    Posts
    13,834
    Quote Originally Posted by shamirj View Post
    how come my S1 does not come with factory holes on the bonnet for the windscreen to rest on the bonnet clamps? just realised there are no additional holes for the brackets, i thought all S1 had the bracket for the windscreen to fold forward onto. just curious.
    I thought the windscreen rest was the spare wheel on the bonnet.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney NSW
    Posts
    353

    update of sorts

    pic1 rim as removed from the tyre, pretty bad state but this is the better one. painter stripper used to peel layers of paint off and a steel brush on drill

    pic2 close up of rims with number all consistent with the remaining 2 rims i have numbered 23160.. what does this mean?

    pic3 before and after door hinges, going to leave as they are with no gal, just in its raw state

    pic4 door hinge now removed and excess paint scrapped off, again leaving it raw

    pic5 door with paint stripper applied and top edge cleaned up but long way to go

    pic6 final door pic with filler primer applied waiting for some more sanding before ready for paint
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2011 Disco 4, TdV6 2.7L, Opp Lock bullbar, Mitch Hitch, RAI, rear drawers, auto steel pan, iidtool BT, Waeco CF40, Hankooks 265x65xr18, 2 way rods (not fitted), Redarc TowPro, Traxide dual battery with Optima, 160W LED light, UHF aerial.

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