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Thread: Tiny bit excited

  1. #301
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    steering wheel update

    1 did some more sanding and the steering wheel is beginning to look half decent. needs some more bog/sanding and a lick of paint

    2 before proceeding any further with the engine, i would like to see if it will fire up. i have a positive cable from the starter ready to fit to positive battery, have earth connected to motor block, and a brown cable from the positive of the coil to positive battery, add some fuel and should this thing start up or am i missing something before attempting to start the engine to life. Oil is full and clean, air is missing the filter and will connect fuel somehow and try to start her up... I have bypassed the starter switch and directly connected the starter motor to the battery when i get one. motor does turn by hand so not seized. hoping i can start her up and it doesn't blow any smoke.
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    Land Rover

  2. #302
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    It should be possative to earth not to starter . Unless some one has polarizeed it to negative to earth . You need to check so you dont damage your charging circuit.

  3. #303
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    All Series 1 Landrovers were originally positive earth. Most would have been converted to negative earth over the years as most accessories (such as radios) made in the last fifty years are mandatorily negative earth.

    The only changes needed to the Series 1 to change battery polarity are:-

    1. fit the correct battery clamps to suit the desired polarity
    2. reverse ammeter connections
    3. connect battery momentarily to the generator output. This can easily be done by manually closing the cutout points in the voltage regulator. This provides residual magnetism of the correct polarity to the generator field poles.

    You can check what polarity it was last used with by connecting a battery the way you think it was and switching on a light. If the ammeter shows discharge, you got it right. Note that step 3 above may be needed when fitting a new or different generator.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #304
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    paint update

    1. Not much achieved other then painting, one more done, one more to go, for the full set. One of the left is for the rear and the other is for the front, did not realize they were a different shape front to rear

    Loosened off some nuts for the front springs, still need to source a new battery, tyres, hood sticks, canvas and maybe the seats.
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    Last edited by shamirj; 1st May 2019 at 01:47 PM. Reason: spelling error
    Land Rover

  5. #305
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    Neither did I! I suspect the front brakes may have been upgraded!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #306
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    brake drums complete

    finally all 4 brake drums completed in that painted in black. another item to tick of the list. nice feeling to be able to move forwards as at times feels like not moving at all.
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    Land Rover

  7. #307
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    drag link etc

    1 tie rod end clamps undergoing cleaning, will prob just clamp up without painting

    2-3 - hand tightened the links for the steering but these cross over which don't look correct to me so

    4-5 - re did them not crossing over, are these in the correct orientation please.

    should of taken photos before pulling apart but too late now. if someone can confirm correct orientation i think 4-5 look good but just want to confirm. cheers
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    Land Rover

  8. #308
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    All tie rod ends go below the steering arms on Series 1 (and early 2a) - I don't think you can fit the wrong arms.

    In any case, which is right is easy to determine - both the tie rod end and the hole in the arm are tapered, and will only fit properly one way!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #309
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    Above or below?

    G'day all, I've just checked my '53 80'' and had a look at the Parts Catalogue. both the Track Rod Assy. and the Drag Link Assy are fitted up to the Steering Levers (fitted to Swivel Pin Housings) from underneath. As John has stated, be guided by the taper in the eyes of the steering levers.
    Cheers, Rob S

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by shamirj View Post
    1 tie rod end clamps undergoing cleaning, will prob just clamp up without painting

    2-3 - hand tightened the links for the steering but these cross over which don't look correct to me so

    4-5 - re did them not crossing over, are these in the correct orientation please.

    should of taken photos before pulling apart but too late now. if someone can confirm correct orientation i think 4-5 look good but just want to confirm. cheers
    Is it me or are those front brake shoes too wide ?
    Looks maybe like 6-cylinder front shoes which might explain why the brake drums are different front & back. Certainly wider than the rears.
    I noticed they are twin leading shoe on the front (original was single leading shoe). Looking at the early pictures of the vehicle the front tyres seem to be slightly outside the wing and the tyres are very different profile to the rears.
    Maybe had a front axle changed at some point ?

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

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