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Thread: Tiny bit excited

  1. #401
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    https://www.ebay.com.au/i/264425041664


    What you need is a Nut Splitter.

  2. #402
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Yes, definitely a nutsplitter job.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #403
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    nut off

    1. state of my nut after grinding it off, not a lot of room under there for anything other then a grinder i think but thanks for the suggestions.
    2. separation for the first time between the engine and the box, now to remove, can either lift the chassis and drop down or lift from up top, might need a helping hand to lift up from the top with a spare set of hands
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  4. #404
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    powered through

    1 gearbox out and off the crossmember
    2 back of the engine
    3 needed to remove gear selector to slide out
    4 full view
    5 front diff out
    6 front view
    7 diff out
    8 final resting place for now
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  5. #405
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    progress but with silicone

    1-2 clutch removed and seems to be ok. not sure whether to replace this with new or not? suggestions

    3-4 the holden adaptor is held in by silicone where the bolts should be, but there are no bolts what so ever, thinking the silicone is what is holding the adaptor in place. need to carefully drill out the silicone filled holes so that i can tap our the adaptor.
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  6. #406
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    Personally, if it was mine I would + the Thrust Bearing, Fork, & anything else that looks a bit dodgy, unless you really enjoy going through this exercise down the track.
    When you eventually seal it all back together you will have the satisfaction of knowing you have done the best job you could have.

    But of course it is your decision albeit it a [Sir Humphrey on] "courageous one Prime Minister."[/Sir Humphrey off]

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    Personally, if it was mine I would + the Thrust Bearing, Fork, & anything else that looks a bit dodgy, unless you really enjoy going through this exercise down the track.
    When you eventually seal it all back together you will have the satisfaction of knowing you have done the best job you could have.

    But of course it is your decision albeit it a [Sir Humphrey on] "courageous one Prime Minister."[/Sir Humphrey off]
    Perhaps worth pointing out that in a Series 1 (and 2/2a), the thrust bearing and fork are inside the gearbox, and should last the life of the vehicle, or at least the gearbox.

    Bit hard to tell from the photos, but the clutch pressure plate and driven plate look OK - I would be inclined to replace the driven plat and probably the spigot bush as well.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Perhaps worth pointing out that in a Series 1 (and 2/2a), the thrust bearing and fork are inside the gearbox, and should last the life of the vehicle, or at least the gearbox.

    Bit hard to tell from the photos, but the clutch pressure plate and driven plate look OK - I would be inclined to replace the driven plat and probably the spigot bush as well.
    As John says but I would also take the pressure plate & flywheel to a clutch specialist & have them checked / tested.

  9. #409
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    Thanks John I had overlooked that, it being many years since mine was in bits, but seemed to recall they were in the "open" in the bell housing. Apparently not so.

  10. #410
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    take off

    1 holden adaptor finally came off, there was actually 3 bolts holding on that was missed due to the grime inside the adaptor
    2 view of clearance for the rear, bolts protruding may need to come off
    3 good clearance at front

    engine block sitting on the ground, now for the chassis to take off, just going to raise for now and then get help to flip the chassis over so i can work on the underneath of the chassis.
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