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The steering shaft turns in a ball bearing race at the top and bottom of the box, and a bush at the top. One or all three of these will be stuck with rust. If you loosen the bolts holding the outer column to the box, and tap the steering column end with a wooden mallet, this should free the inner shaft. May need soaking in some sort of penetrating oil for at least a day first, especially if the bush at the top is seized.
1. inner outer shaft separated finally, it was wedged tight at the steering wheel end
2. close up of some minor damage to the inner tube but this was not the cause of the problem
3. while i was there, i cleaned up the outer shaft to prep for paint
4. outer shaft painted mat black
5. spent some time on the box cleaning this up as well, though i think i may have lost some of the ball bearings...
quick look online and most steering kits are for the S2-3, but tempted to just get these as they look very similar to S1 (if i cant source s1 kit)
took the oil pump out, all was good removed the spring as the bolt on the opp end as the spring loaded inside, so prob didn't need the other oil pump as it turns out.
my starter button did not crank over today, not sure why. checked battery all good, may have to open up the starter switch but was bought new, but disappointed. one step fwd about 3 backwards.
The later Series 1 steering box is essentially identical to Series 2 and early 2a, except that the column is a couple of inches shorter. So any parts in a Series 2a/3 kit will be interchangeable except for the inner and outer columns.
The difference for later 2a and 3 is that the steering wheel attachment is different, so these are not interchangeable either.
I would have thought the original colour of the outer column was gloss black, but I have to admit to never having seen one that was new!
John that column is not new, its the used item painted black
1. to my surprise my local nut/bolt shop had the special bolts for the rocket cover for holden 186
2. bought 8 all new and bolted into position
spent morning bolting up the bottom pan and finding those damn bolts that some had gone missing, all sorted and done below so jumped to the top to sort out the bolts for the rocket cover, fitted. not shown was the approx 4L of engine oil, then a burst of "start ya bastard" and now cranking but no start. pretty confident the timing is correct now. cranking issue turned out to be a stuck starter but a quick tap sorted that out. nothing wrong with the new starter switch. my uneducated guess is a dirty blocked carburetor, so will pull this out and see if i can see any blockages or at least clean out before attempting a re start.
just to check positive from battery goes to positive to coil?
1. carby seems ok, i am guessing its not a fuel issue but a spark issue, looking down the barrel of the carby with the top half of the carby off
2. re did the timing again. there is no spark at the spark plugs. played around with the tiny coil inside the distributor so either my timing is out or the distributor is faulty or the condensor is crap, will search on youtube for some answers, damn its close to a start, i can feel it getting closer
i did clean our and pull out the condensor and refitted and when tightening the screw for the condensor it did spark inside which was promising to see some spark
I would check following sequence:
1. Power to coil? No Check wire?
2. Power on other side of coil (ie wire that goes to distributor)? No? Coil Faulty
3. Power at distributor connection? No replace wire from coil to Distributor
4. Click points apart. Dont spark or weak spark Check earth of condensor or replace.
5. Put timing light on each lead.Ignition on turn motor over No flash Replace leads
6. If there is a flash, Check timing and or lead sequence 1,5,3,6,2,4 I think is the set up.
7. Take out each spark plug and with it connected to the lead turn over the motor. Spark then Plug OK
Coils and condensors are hard to evaluate. Sometimes its replace and see what happens. Also making sure you have the correct Coil is most important as some have bigger spark than others.
Hope I am not telling you to suc eggs.
Cheers David
thank you david, will try to check all that...
coil came with the car so have not changed the coil
i don't own a timing light so unless i get one can't do for the moment
just put the battery charger on as the battery has sat idle for some weeks
1. had a closer inspection of the carby seems ok, pulled what i could apart and sprayed lubricated inside. seems like it wants to start but wont. looked up youtube and they held a wire from the neg distributor to positive battery and turned distributor until the light came on, which mine did so guessing now the timing is good. checked all the spark plugs and they are new and fine. i think its a carby fault or lack of fuel. only spraying 'start ya bastard' not sure if the butterfly float should be open or closed to assist, there is one on top and one at bottom of carby.
Joe , Did the carby float chamber have no fuel in it when you pulled the top off or did you blow it out. If it was dry like that then you are not getting fuel to the carby. Has it got a mechanical fuel pump or electric , if you have a mechinacal pump & have had ie off did you get the pump leaver on the correct side of the cam when you refitted it is easy to get it on the back of the cam . When fitting the pump it will always have pressure trying to push the pump away from the engine block.
If you don't have spark I would be replacing the Condenser , they are not expensive , theyshould be replaced every time you replace the points. These days the condensers don't last long I have bought new ones & they have been faulty. Also make sure any earths in the dizyare clean tight & not broken.
Wayne
If you still have the top off fill the float chamber up with fuel then put the top back on . Then if you turn the butterfly shaft a few times there should be fuel squrting out of the accelerator pump jet if you look down the throat of the carby. while the top is off you could also put a little engine oil down on top of the accelerator pump if it has a leather pump bucket it could have dryed out the oil will help to soften it so it can expand. If it is the neoprene type the oil should not hurt it.
If you can stand the electric zap, and you have no heart conditions, turning over the motor and holding the end of the HT lead will soon tell you if you have a spark or not. Can be a bit painful!!!