Thread: Tiny bit excited

Originally Posted by shamirj

1. great start to the day, primed the fuel pump and as you can see fuel pumping to the pump and checked near carby fuel evident, ya

2. bling bling, way too much bling for this old girl - but my carby arrived and installed, came with bottom gasket as well.

3. pump starting squirting fuel from below, so ripped it out and you can see why

4. why on earth would this pump have a hole, this is where the fuel was squirting out from. looks like a new fuel pump needs to be ordered.

will look into the distributor but hopefully this wont stop be from starting the car. ever so close

something like this for the pump ok? just does not have the glass top

Fuel pump for Holden 132 161 173 179 186 202 Mechanical Goss G7736 | eBay

If there is fuel coming out that hole there is a hole in the diaphragm , the hole is to let air in & out under the diaphragm other wise the diaphragm will not flex. The top arrow shows the hole in the new pump you are looking at the bottom arrow shows were a seal is fitted to stop oil coming up from the sump & coming out the hole. You should be able to buy a kit for your old pump if you want to rebuild it. Inkeds-l500_LI.jpg The old diaphragm would have dried out & gone hard & once it tried to flex would have split.
Wayne

1. brake master arrived seems like good quality

2. one has a smaller hole then the other, is this the correct location for the filler to connect to please, need to go to brake shop and get a 60cm brake line made up next

3. fuel pump arrived

4. fuel pump fitted but it has two leaks, is that hole supposed to be open and allow air flow for the diaphragm

5-6. view from below, can i use plumber tape to secure the bolts to the pump please see last pic, two fittings which is where i am guessing its leaking from, black lines actually show some fuel dripping (hard to see in pic)

pump is pumping fuel, not sure its getting to the carby with the leaks i have, still not 100 per cent sure my timing on the distributor is correct as i got no start again. point has to be open when it aligns with the spark plug leads?

2. General rule for all master cylinders is the fluid inlet is the hole nearest the push rod. So, yes.

4. yes

5-6. Not clear from the view just how these joints are meant to seal. If the joint is sealing on the thread (taper thread) then OK to use teflon tape. But if the joint is supposed to seal with a face to face seal, this won't work - the two bits sealing need to match. And make sure that the bits screwing into each other actually have the same thread - the age of the engine makes it a prime candidate for metric/imperial thread mismatch.

Is that how the tank was mounted on the master cylinder , I am not sure how they were mounted on your model S1 , on the 80" the tank is mounted up beside the fuel tank in a clamp bracket under the seat with a pipe feeding the M/Cylinder . What ever you don't use thread tape any were near brake fluid it will make the fluid go off.

Is it leaking were the brass fitting goes into the pump or or were the pipe screws into the brass fitting.
As has been said thread tape should work if it is leaking out the thread but being a later Fuel pump it may have metric pipe threads , there is only a slight difference between metric & imperial threads.& if there is a olive on the pipe with miss matched threads may not seat the olive on the taper seat .

I could not work out what the two black things are coming down from the pump?

DSCN4287.jpgDSCN4286_LI.jpg Second photo not very but you can just see were it mounts on a bracket off the chassis. I don't think there would be room to mount it directly on the M/Cyl think it would hit on the floor plus you would never be able to check the fluid level.

1. another pet hate, you go to buy $5 worth of nuts and walk out of shop spending $18 because they have a policy minimum spend is $15, wont be going back to that bolt shop, so forced to buy a can prob wont use or need

2. brake master arrived, raced out to a brake shop and had the pipe made up for the master to the canister, think all S1 are the same mounted near the fuel tank, ignore my prev pic was curious to see which hole it mounted to. that was a win.

3. removed the rod connecting master brake to brake pedal, damn that is hard to undo, soaked in some wd40 but cannot undo to replace with new rod for brake master as supplied by new part

4. rookie mistake commenced bending the pipe and then realised the coupling will not move into position so cant straighten out now to get the coupling to position then bend. my mistake. crap...

5. not sure if this bracket is factory or not, it was on my master brake to hold onto chassis, guessing it is not factory made and will prob not use.

2 black lines were where the fuel was leaking, the connections are good and tighten by hand easily. can i use plumbers tape on this fuel connection? sorry confused you it does not mount on the master cyl but as you described on or near the fuel tank. i think its leaking from the brass connection into the pump, might try the tape and see if that works out. thanks to all

1. another delivery this time the pcv valve and hose.

2. fitted into position, rubber hose into the rocker cover gave me grief till i figures it was the wrong way round when i fitted it, just wouldn't sit flush till i turned it over and one job done.

3. these two brace nuts were are the culprit i think, so have undone and redone with plumbers tape, so will crank next time and see if it leaks again or not. fingers crossed on that front.

option 2 would be to undo that elbow and bolt onto the top outlet and blank off the side outlet instead, basically reverse what is shown in pic

Just a guess , I think some one has made that plate up to help support the M/Cyl , when they are old & brittle they tend to brake around the securing holes . I would say the flange was broken so they have used the plate to clamp in position.

DSCN4288_LI.jpg
I am guessing you are trying to screw the push rod out of the adjuster . best would be to remove the whole adjuster & heat it up with a heating torch then apply some more WD40 then screw it back & forward until it free up , don't force it or you will snap it .
If you don't have anything to heat it with if you take it off you can soak it overnight in in WD40 then place it on something solid & give it a few taps with a hammer were I show the arrows to loosen the rust , not too hard you don't want to distort it. Once you get it out make sure you grease the thread before re assembly . Never seize is the best but if you don't have any normal chassis grease will do.
Don't want to put you off but ,If you things have been difficult wait till you go to bleed the brakes ! They are a night mare .

Just a word of warning about teflon tape. It can dissolve in petrol and should not be used.