Last photo should be measurement , it is taken from a old bow I have here
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1. had this 3 sided steel which looked like a nice match to help support the hoodstick around a bend so thought to make a die
2. cut some grooves to help bend, heated with my torch (only a small one at that) could not heat sufficiently to bend into a die kinda like a U shape, scrapped that idea
3. began playing with my jig i made for the removal of my relay as a pipe bender
4. tried on some small diameter steel tube pipe i had and seems to work, no heat applied but need a die to spread the load so it doesn't pinch in the one spot so the bend will look better, i just need to figure out or find something to use as a die on top of the jack
also thinking may heat the hood stick before attempting to bend it, to help it along
5. this is the measurement i am after please anyone, from the base to the bolt hole then comes the bend.
I owned one of these when I had my steel & aluminium fabrication business Attachment 160044 it would not bend galv pipe that size without creasing it . Pipe larger than that was not a problem. I asked the two press shops we used who also did pipe rolling they said they could not do it. We had a mobile pipe roller guy who would come to our shop & roll Alum pipe he suggested I use alum pipe so got him to do it in alum.
What you are trying to do there will not work it is too tight a curve. to bend pipe that size you need to pack it tight with sand to stop it collapsing & creasing & use heat around the out side of the bend then form it around A larger pipe the correct radius.
The sand stops the pipe from collapsing on the bend.
An alternative to sand is to fill it with melted lead, and then melt it back out afterwards.
1-2 removed the old bolts and radiator from the radiator support panel today. This panel is far better then the other one i was going to use. Has already been wire brushed clean on one side only. Will need to cut off the excess panels on inside once a suitable radiator is found. If still waiting on parts may even paint the surface.
Hoodsticks - Went to purchase more steel today they have run out. Another supplier had a thicker gauge steel which i declined. Thinking to hire a pipe bender ($20 per day) heat and try to bend as best i can once i have all the steel i need. Hoping it wont be to bad if heat applied. I did see on youtube people placing sand inside to help keep its shape.
That is an 88 radiator panel not a 86 radiator panel - if not concerned about originality no issue but just in case you don't know.
Garry
1-2 Given it was a nice sunny day thought to paint her up. one side till i decide what i am doing in the rear side. cleaned off and painted whilst i have some paint left over.
101RRS - thanks i did not realise but thought it was different to the other one i had. It does have a Holden engine which is not original either but am trying where possible to keep to original as possible. It is a very subtle difference to pick but well spotted.
Disappointed in not being able to buy some more steel but that will have to wait.
paint finish was crap and the paint had not set after 24hrs so thru out the old tin of paint and will need to buy some more new paint to finish off
1. so out came the paint stripper and washed off twice to get the bulk of the newly applied paint and older paint off underneath my coat
2. then came the sanding process, back to square one
Isn't painting fun , It either reacts with paint under the undercoat , a bug decides to land on it & skate around , a shower of rain comes over before it is dry or you end up with a big run. I redid one of my guards about six times before I was happy .
1. painting is kinda fun when it turns out great, hate having to redo painting over and over again. went to local bunnings $62 for 1L of paint - talk about a rip off (paints are so expensive these days) crazy really - you can see the new tin of paint in pic
2. painted and let out to dry in the direct sunlight (whats left of it today), and i am back up to date for now