Filler.jpg Joe in the top photo the transfer case level plug is in the drivers side of the transfer case marked N
X2^^ Agree with John, however I'd suggest that you take the existing plug out and take it with you when you buy a replacement. As John said, it is not standard and the size &/or the thread may have been changed. Also 3/8 BSP thread is about 17mm diameter.
The bolt (nut) you referred to, which is higher than the level plug is to hold the iintermediate shaft (which you can see the end of next to the nut) in position.
Roger
Filler.jpg Joe in the top photo the transfer case level plug is in the drivers side of the transfer case marked N
1-2. here is the driver side of the gearbox but clearly has no nut/bolt to undo to check levels 1950Landy, so guessing its the other one mentioned then...
3. clamped the seat back vinyl cover to see how i can make this work without sewing (don't have a sewing machine), could just glue together, looks ok and doable, will need more foam for more comfort though
4. felt is the inner layer i will use, just cutting out the holes for the bolts needed to secure seat backs into position
5. here is the worst seat back, will use for the middle seat which is unlikely to be used, other two were in much better condition, had forgotten to paint this one
6. painted both sides and left to dry - set aside for now. my tin of glue had gone off so will need to visit bunnings to get more supplies
Land Rover
level plug 1.jpg This is from later S1 parts book , item 41 says Oil Level Plug 1/8" gas. You remove plug 41 & fill through filler plug 39 until the oil runs out of the hole were 41 came out of then refit the plugs.
Back in early 1950 there was a modification to booth the gear box & transfer case were they lowered the oil levels to stop a oil leak problem . Early boxes had the level plug in the side & later boxes had it at the rear & I am guessing LR deleted the plug in the side on later boxes.
1. time to do the seat backs - they have all been painted so its time to wrap them in vinyl. found some M6 bolts to suit and fed thru. this is not the way the originals were fitted but works for me
2. then bolted into position so it cant come undone.
3. wrapped with felt then foam
4. ready to accept the vinyl, need to buy some more first.
Land Rover
1. so bought some spray on glue for the vinyl to cover the seat backs and its ok but not working as well as it should, tacky to touch but will not stick vinyl on vinyl
2. here is a pic of the front of the seat backs, which aren't too bad for no sewing, its all folded and lightly glued. its ok for a seat back and didn't cost a small fortune from overseas
3. rear view, all folded and pulled into the 4 bolts but does need to be pulled a little more and glued into position, thinking to buy another different brand of spray glue or try something else, once the bottom is pulled and held in position it does look pretty good for home made.
Land Rover
1. grommet arrived from Uk, to fit over the hole in the centre floor panel over the gearbox
2. VIN stamped onto the new ID card
3. seat backs and base fitted up to see how it all looks, not too bad
4. fuel plug as a very minor leak, damn it. can i wrap plumbers tape on the thread which i think will stop the leak, or should i cut out a new washer from the new gasket i have bought and used for the top of the fuel cap?
5. new gasket cut out and fitted for the bottom of the fuel cap lid
6. new vinyl on the seat backs fitted to see how they look and feel, pretty happy not 100% original but it works for me
7. fitted new grommet in place
8. new cork feeling grommet bought to use on the fuel cap lid - job done worked well
9. stamps i bought to stamp my new ID plate with VIN number - another small job done
10. ID plate riveted into position - job done
all in all, lots of small jobs completed - but still have the exhaust to sort out, oil for the transfer, handbrake to be sorted, brakes need bleeding, radiator needs a cowl prob make out of left over aluminium. Not sure what to do with the radiator overflow opening though - suggestions (overflow bottle really required)
Land Rover
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
The drain plug is designed to seal on a fibre washer. You might be able to get it to seal on the thread, but why not use the correct washer. Measure the size, and it should be obtainable (for a ridiculously high price for a single washer!) from most mechanical workshops or suppliers, or a bearing supplier etc.
And one of my pet hates - Series 1 Landrovers do not have a VIN, they have a chassis number. The VIN system was not conceived until about a decade after the end of Series 1.
On a separate issue - the ball and socket on the gearlever. These levers have a tendency to break, invariably due to a history of overloading because the ball and socket are providing too much resistance, usually due to lack of lubrication. Oil is suitable unless you live in a dusty location like I do, when powdered graphite is the thing. The setscrew and nut in the side of the socket is non-standard. While this may well be working OK, the correct item is a special grub screw. If it is loose, it will wear out the thread in the alloy casting, and without it gear changing is very difficult!
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
1. As suggested went to bunnings to buy the seal tape for the fuel tank drain plug - no time to fit yet but will do when i get enough jerry cans to empty the fuel out first - what a pain
2. the only bolt not gone thru the suspension was the front pass side, so had another go today but i think either the bolt is incorrect or damaged - not 100% sure the bolt is the correct one either
3. so pulled out the offending bolt and the ends are a little buggered from my hammering (oops)
4. might try the local bolt shop to see if they can match this one - i know i shouldn't hammer them in cause the shackle is threaded but hoping its the right thread on the bolt.
also wired up the electric fan to the wiring circuit - does come on when ignition is switched on - will see how this works. just trying to finish this project and losing some steam have to say. still trying to find two brackets for the seat backs i am missing.
Land Rover
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