Thread: Tiny bit excited

Start on the longest run first - passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front and driver front. Open the first bleed screw right up and pump through any crude in the system, tighten up the bleed screw so it is cracked open and pump through until all bubbles gone - then do the same with the others. Might then have to have a second go all round.

If you cannot pump fluid through then yes there is some sort of blockage or the mastercylinder is letting fluid back past it as you pump it.

Make sure your shoes are adjusted correctly - adjust up until the wheel just locks and then back off only as much to let the wheel turn freely.

Garry

so i popped over to the holden section to sort out my smoking holden 186, now sold off and replaced with a holden 202, working well and all good in that department. so now back onto finishing of the build. so only a small bit of work done but managed to secure the centre seat base, seats are ready to go back in to tidy up the interior a bit.

1. interior centre seat base bolted up

still needing to sort out the clutch shaft - about to hatch a plan to see what's up with the shaft not engaging the clutch stay tuned...

Sounds like you've almost finished and have gained enough experience to start another project............. and I've found one for you to get your teeth into. Original motor & gearbox so no Holden or clutch problems.... ........
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Xtreme - nice looking project but NO WAY another rebuild, getting too old

1. seat bases went back in easy enough, quick clean and slotted into position job done

2. bit hard to see, marked on the tape two lines for the measurement of the clutch pedal movement from highest to lowest point

3. moving this threaded rod all the way up and then all the way down, did not really improve or provide more rotation just moved the two lines on my tape effectively moving the gold posts so to speak so needed an answer so went looking elsewhere...

4-5. this shaft though old and not perfect seems ok but there is more slack at the end where the pins enters so...

6. so thought to reduce the wear on this part and again help reduce the slack so...

7. welded up the hole to redrill and newer hole with a bit less tolerances for the cross shaft to secure into position and take a lot more slack out of the system, which has helped but still unable to find that sweep spot (as before) which engages and disengages the clutch. need more time to think this one through...

1. had bought these some time ago and then decided to fit them to the plan looking doors so people in the streets know exactly what this beast is, a LAND ROVER and not a bloody jeep. Used 3M double sided tape and measured up and stuck on, lets hope it stays on otherwise will need to be rivetted on but don't want to drill into the doors if possible.

Originally Posted by Xtreme

Sounds like you've almost finished and have gained enough experience to start another project............. and I've found one for you to get your teeth into. Original motor & gearbox so no Holden or clutch problems.... ........
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With the position of the radiator panel, has it got a straight 8 in it? [emoji16][emoji41]
It'd go well!

1. played around in the wind today with the clutch assembly, there is definite slack and some play in the settings due to wear but was happy with the minor tweaks to bring the whole lot with much less slack in the system now.

2. also though to wd40 the 4wd lever and push up and down in case this may have been an issue...

so now I am getting as good a pedal feel as i should, it is depressing the clutch (i feel) BUT its grinding the teeth meaning what !!! as the motor is fired up, the whole flywheel and clutch pressure plate is turning, and the role of the clutch is to stop the rotation so that the gears can engage (right), so if i am depressing the clutch its not stopping the rotation ??? what's the problem here ...

I have tried engaging 4wd, 2wd, low and high range and neutral but nothing seems to work when it comes to engaging the clutch - remember before the 202 went in, it worked fine with the 186 engine. Engine aren't that different really so ruling out the engine change as possible problem.

1. took the gearstick off to look down the hole to see the top hat and it seems like its doing its thing - pushing against the fingers. I feel i need to somehow squeeze more rotation, took the bottom fork out beneath the pedal and played around with the settings but it depresses but obviously not enough if it still crunches through the gears. My last resort will have to be to pull out the gearbox and push the fingers on the pressure plate further in or outward to adjust but not keen on doing this again.

I will have another go at playing around with the pedal, the fork shaft beneath the pedal and then the cross shaft between the chassis and gearbox and keep reducing the amount of free play in the system.