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After an extremely long saga getting the correct piston assembly set for my engine rebuild, I take the set to the engine rebuilder and he gets out the rings, places them on a flat surface, and announces that they are bend/warped and cannot be used. The worst one has about 1mm of warp as per the pic, most are much less than this.
Attachment 148251
Is this a show-stopper as he says it is? He says there is risk of breaking a ring in service...
C
I'm struggling to understand why there is a 'problem' and cannot see why the ring would break in service but, to be fair, I'm not an engine re-conditioner.Quote:
Originally Posted by cjc_td5
The twist must have been through poor storage and I wonder if the set will come out when the engine comes up to temperature ?
Colin
The rings were in box sets on top of the pistons in a larger box. We were wondering if the rings had been deformed by being squashed onto the top of the ridged pistons. (The pistons not having a flat top but being "crowned" on top?Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
Well got my engine back from the machine shop. 100% assembly required [emoji26][emoji26]. Let the fun begin. What could possibly go wrong......
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d84b3afed4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8c1e9481dc.jpg
There are some huge 2mm+ casting ridges in some of the inlet and exhaust ports. I wonder if half a day spent with a die grinder may bring tangible benefits? I'll have to clean up a big mess afterwards, but it needs a wash to get rid of the anti rust goo anyway.
Thoughts?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4781c932bb.jpg
What ring gap could anyone recommend? There is nothing in the docs that came with the piston assemblies nor in the workshop manuals. The best I can find on the web is 4thou per inch of bore for the top compression ring (so 12thou gap) and 5thou per inch of bore for the second compression ring (so 15thou gap). Thoughts?
Cheers, Chris.
Thanks for sharing cjc_td5
Great to see your progress, I will be tackling this task soon, very keen to see how you go.
Yes, thanks for sharing cjc_td5,
One point, I found fixing the engine sideways makes lots of the scopes much easier as you get easy access to the crank and clutch. Maybe worth considering on your next engine rebuild [thumbsupbig]m
https://up.picr.de/38228268yq.jpg
Trying to get my engine onto a stand this afternoon and you're right! The rear end of the crank needs access ideally.Quote:
Originally Posted by 100inch
My 2L block is missing those bolt holes on the side of the block you're using with that bracket. [bigsad]
Looks like Chris's dosent have them either. Mine is a 1954 too. (I think, the first numbers are a bit gone)
I think I'll have to make a bracket that uses the engine mount and the flywheel housing attachment points.
https://up.picr.de/38294754bs.jpg
https://up.picr.de/38294756ug.jpg
Another two different ways to bolt the engine on. Hope they work for yours. m
