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Thread: 2.0L engine rebuild?

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    cjc_td5's Avatar
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    2.0L engine rebuild?

    I own a 1954 86" with the 2.0l siamese bore engine. The one thing I have not touched in the 10 years I have been sporadically restoring the vehicle is the engine & gearbox. The vehicle was finally road registered a couple of months ago. Whilst some road running has dramatically improved its demeanour, there are a few ongoing concerns that I feel ready to tackle now. Symptoms are:
    - It bungs up spark plugs in short time. I am running hotter spark plugs, but by 20 hours of running time with new plugs, a miss at high revs and rough idle will develop which a set of plugs will remove (until next time).
    - Dry compression is 100-105 psi across all 4 cylinders.
    - It blows oil mist out of the breather on the tappet cover like a steam train!
    - There is an occasional internal rattle on startup. Will only last for a fraction of a second and I presume may be related to lack of oil pressure at cold starting.

    The oil pressure seems ok and sits fairly stable at 30-40 psi. Tappet clearances have been checked and are (were) ok.

    I am debating on whether to give it to someone to rebuild or to dismantle myself and inspect and replace required parts as necessary, in consultation with the good folk at AULRO and the workshop manual. I don't particularly want to soak up $8-10K of "spending money" on a rebuild if I can avoid it.

    What would be the likely areas to target with a "light" rebuild?
    - Piston Rings?
    - Valve seats? Can hardened valves & seats be installed for ULP?
    - Likelihood of having to go to a rebore and/or bigger pistons etc?
    - Would you dismantle & inspect the bottom end whilst it was out of the vehicle?

    Any other advice at this time?

    Thanks
    Chris
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86"
    1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
    1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)

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    My guess if it has that much blowby iit will have worn or broken rings causing the plugs to oil up . You won't need hardened valve seats as they already are. To get the pistons out you will need to diismantle the bottom end so you will be able to check the bearings . You need to check the compression with a couple of squrts of oil in the cylinders if it increases the compression then the rings are a problem.

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    cjc_td5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    My guess if it has that much blowby iit will have worn or broken rings causing the plugs to oil up . You won't need hardened valve seats as they already are. To get the pistons out you will need to diismantle the bottom end so you will be able to check the bearings . You need to check the compression with a couple of squrts of oil in the cylinders if it increases the compression then the rings are a problem.
    Thanks. A set of wet compression tests will be this weekend's task.
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86"
    1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
    1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    That sounds like my 2.0 55 years ago.

    I put in new rings and big end bearings and did a valve grind, deglazed the cylinder walls, nothing else. Fixed all the issues.

    Only subsequent problem was, driving from Sydney back to Longreach, about half way started getting severe pre-ignition. Pulling the plugs showed that the centre electrodes had worn to needle points. Fortunately, I still had with me the old plugs that had kept oiling up, put them in, no further problems.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    You used to be able to buy a product I think was called New Metal that came in a tube like a tooth paste tube , you put 1/4 in each cylinder then left so it run down the sids of the pistons . You then had to drive the vehicle hard to get the rings to push out against the bore . I used it in my 80 " back when I 1st bought it , I was having to put a pint of oil in it after each run , after using the product the vehicle went another 6 years with out having to top up the oil . Unlike other products that make the same clam it did not gum up the rings , all the rings were free & the groves were clean. It worked wert the rings were stuck in the groves or the bore saw badly glassed, would not work if rings were broken.
    Now the down side to this story . I don't think you can buy New Metal any more it is like most products that work it is no longer available.

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    The compression test numbers are in.

    Dry compression pressures are 93, 90, 93 & 85.

    Wet compression pressures are 115, 120, 122 & 113.

    All compression readings would take 2-3 cycles to come up max pressure, which from my reading indicates poor ring compression also.

    Spark plugs 1 & 2 are visibly sootier than 3 & 4 which are comparatively dry and brown.

    Looks like it may be engine out time...
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86"
    1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
    1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    You can do rings and bearings without removing the engine.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    cjc_td5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    You can do rings and bearings without removing the engine.
    The rear main oil seal needs attention and the clutch should be checked. It could all do with a coat of paint also.
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86"
    1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
    1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)

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    cjc_td5's Avatar
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    Well 9am saw this.
    20180930_091046 m.jpg

    By 5pm it was this!
    20180930_170002 m.jpg

    Out with you, bastard! That was a mission without a bolted gearbox cross member. I had to take off all of the handbrake assembly and flange and then ended up having to release one side of the bulkhead and lift it by a couple of inches to give clearance for the gearbox to fit through the tunnel. Will have to weigh up installing the gearbox split and connecting insitu vs lifting the bulkhead so the engine and transmission can be reinstalled in one piece....

    Now it looks like I have a few hours of cleaning ahead of me...
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86"
    1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
    1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)

  10. #10
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    Siamese bore engine rebuild

    Chris, I'll be watching this thread with interest. My '53 2 litre engine needs to come out to have a new ring gear fitted to the flywheel.
    Cheers, Rob S

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