Keep advancing the timing a little bit until you get some pinging, then back off a whisker?
My 86" Series One seems a bit of a slugmobile these days, I'm sure it had more grunt in days gone past. Compression is good in all cylinders at 120-130 psi, valve tappet clearances are correct, carby is a new reproduction unit which should be OK. Ignition timing is set to the 15 mark at idle and advances when the engine is revved, as shown with a timing light.
So am I imagining it that this engine down on power? Can forum members suggest anything I might have missed?
Regards: John.
Keep advancing the timing a little bit until you get some pinging, then back off a whisker?
Chris
2014 D4 TDV6
1954 86"
1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)
I know it is advancing when you rev it but is the mechanical advance causing this & vacuum advance not working & is it holding vacuum. Try sucking on the vacuum advance & put your toung over the hole to see if it is holding vacuum & the base plate is turning. If that is ok try turning the dist cam to make sure the mechanical advance is working you should be able to hear the weights clatter as they go out. If they are ok you may have too much back pressure in the exhaust or hand brake or beakes draging . I had trouble with my 80" once were oil was leaking into the hand hrake causing the linings to become very sticky & making the h/ brake to drag.
With a fairly low power car like this, it does not take much brake drag to really knock performance. Also, check tyre pressures, if you haven't. And make sure you are not stuck in four wheel drive.
Another possibility is a rear wheel bearing on the way out. Jack up each wheel one at a time (remembering the handbrake is ineffective with a back wheel off the ground) and check that all wheels turn freely.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
I have also had one rear axel seal leak causing one rear brake linings to get sticky & the hotter the brakes got the worst it got until the vehicle would not move . I ended up backing he brake adjuster off so I could limp home.
John,
Check out the vaccuum and centrifugal advances, points gap etc as previously suggested. Has it run well previously with the new repro carbie? Maybe it is jetted wrong or not set up properly. Series 1 2.L engines like a bit of fuel when accelerating. Check to see if there is any lost motion in the accelerator pump rod adjustment. The work shop manual shows how to adust it for best performance. If there is a lot of slop in the link rod / lever it will bog down and/or spit back when accelerating and may need to be repaired . Some times the pump and power/ecomomy valve diaphragms go hard and brittle causing poor performance.You should see a squirt of fuel from the curved pipe in the carbie mouth when you open the throttle sharply from idle position with engine off. Don't look down the carbie with the engine running - you will get bad surprise if it back fired in your eyes! Fuel strainer / filter not clogged? SU pump delivering enough fuel?
Best of luck - I hope you find your missing ponies! 5380
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