check the "earth lead" for continuity as you turn the motor over slowly, if it doesnt open and close then you have a points or shorting issue.
Struggling to get spark
I have power to the coil and have replaced the earth to the dizzy. Points open as starter turns the rotor but...... no spark at the spark plugs.
Is that a graphite rod from the coil feed to the rotor? I’m wondering where the electric circuit is failing..... I’ve swapped the coil with a new one and same result.
What’s the best way to test the coil to dizzie lead??
Mustlust
1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
1956 Series 1 86in
1956 Series 1 107
1957 Series 1 88in
1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
2011 Discovery 4 3.0
2009 110 utility 2.4tdci
check the "earth lead" for continuity as you turn the motor over slowly, if it doesnt open and close then you have a points or shorting issue.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
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When I run a test light from the dizzie earth and open the points, the test light goes out, so the points seem ok. But this only works if I disconnect the coil earth wire, otherwise the light stays on. Is this what’s suppose to occur?
Mustlust
1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
1956 Series 1 86in
1956 Series 1 107
1957 Series 1 88in
1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
2011 Discovery 4 3.0
2009 110 utility 2.4tdci
So, should the coil be insulated? I’m thinking it must be earthing out on the bulkhead.
Mustlust
1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
1956 Series 1 86in
1956 Series 1 107
1957 Series 1 88in
1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
2011 Discovery 4 3.0
2009 110 utility 2.4tdci
The coil contains two circuits the primary side (small terminals) and the secondary side (coil centre terminal to middle of distributor cap). Power comes from the ignition switch to the (-) coil terminal and the (+) goes to the points, nothing must touch metal or be earthed on this wire or the points won't do there job.
The action of the points opening creates a rapid collapse of the magnetic field inside the coil inducing a spark in the secondary side (ZAP).
This assumes you have positive earth if not reverse the leads on the coil.
Put a thin piece of cardboard between the points switch the ignition on and make sure you have 12 volts at the moving point. If not start looking for either a broken wire or a short to earth somewhere. It is also possible to have faulty coil or a faulty condensor.
basic ignition system points - Google Search
The Land Rover does not use an ignition resistor
To test the leads , use an OME meter . The coil lead go from the carbon to the other end of the lead & for the leads take a reading from the terminals in side the cap to the plug caps. There should not be any resistance unless you are using carbon leads instead if wire then there should be minimal resistance .
If you have the dist cap with the pointed screws securing the leads into the cap you can not use carbon leads & if using wire leads strip some of the insulation off to make sure the wire isn't going green if they are they need replacing. With the caps with plug in leads they may be carbon leads , so may need replacing.
Remove Cap, set motor so points closed, take the HT lead out of cap and place it about 5 to 10mm from earth ie: tappet cover. Switch on ignition and gently open points with insulated screw driver or such. Should produce a nice spark very time you open points. This will test your wiring, coil and points.
If no spark work your way through each component to you find problem you can have condenser removed if in question.
Very common problems include new crap points find an old set and clean them up, play in shaft set you point gap holding the shaft away from points if there is any play.
Note coil must not be insulated the body of coil is one side of the HT circuit. Also the coil should be the type designed not to have a ballast resistor or they run way to hot and fail.
Dennis
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