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Thread: `52 80in brakes dragging

  1. #1
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    `52 80in brakes dragging

    I have been trying to find a post I saw some time ago about dragging brakes. Ive renewed everything but still the front brakes are dragging. Adjusters are wound right off, Im wondering if I've been sent the wrong shoes? The shoes have the adjuster post that the snail hits on in the right spot.
    I thought they were tight as they were new and would bed in, but they have been on for about 2-3000km now and are still very tight. My parts manual shows the spring post for the brake shoe on the outside..mine is on the inside as it is also the brake adjustment post??

  2. #2
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    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    That should have an adjustable post to set the shoe straight, and this may need adjusting - although it should not. If the spring is not pulling the shoe against it, or if the post needs adjusting, it will drag.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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  3. #3
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    Dragging front brakes

    Just had a look at the Parts Catalogue. It lists the spring post for brake shoe as Part. No. 232074. And it's illustrated on the outer side of the brake shoe. Also shown are "Shoe steady post" part No. 219620 - 2 per Brake Anchor Plate Assembly. I'd check these are all in place and working as intended. If the Pull-off spring for Leading Shoe (232098) is hooked on to snail post it could be misaligning the shoe assembly vis-a-vis the brake drum and hence the drag. Have you checked the linings for signs of wear around the outer edge? Hope this helps.
    Cheers, Rob S

  4. #4
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    Thanks Rob, I think Ive got the wrong shoes as my parts catalogue shows what you are describing. I might try another set of shoes and see if its any better.
    Any recommendations for sourcing new shoes? these were from the series one shop, but I can't get any contact from them..

  5. #5
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    Do you still have the original brake shoes that you pulled off?

    Aaron

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron IIA View Post
    Do you still have the original brake shoes that you pulled off?

    Aaron
    No unfortunately, I checked a few different parts books and it would appear that they are the right ones. I have ended up just shaving about 1mm off the top of the shoe where it sits in the wheel cylinder. Its all that it needed and now the shoes have adjusted up perfectly and the drum isn't binding.
    After 2 weeks I still haven't heard back from the series one shop..

  7. #7
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    Brakes

    Some of the slave cylinders that we get now are just a bit longer, if you have new cylinders.
    I have found that dragging brakes normally relates to the master cylinder not returning the oil properly, thus you can set every thing up nice and after using the brakes they start to drag.
    Dennis

  8. #8
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    Drums and shoes @ 2019

    Hiyas

    Had similar problem with all new (but original slaves).

    Pertinent?? Was advised by older/elder brake person, they used to have rotating skimmer to pare the shoes down to the correct "round" diameter. All that stuff sort of disappeared over the years. Now one needs to "fit" in the "fitter" sense of the word, drum on tighten c/s screws and rotate, drum off, take down the high spots, same again and again and again until the drum rotates freely with all wound off and retaining screws and wheel nuts done up.

    Comment?

    cheers

    RF

    PS: did start on my gearbox and transfer around last xmas. June and still waiting for "critical path" bits - 1st reverse idler and mate, (last out and first in) Ummm this week with luck :0) At this stage after so long, might get it rebuilt by specialist Series person.

    PPS: Getting nagged by a daughter/s and g/daughter (who wish to inherit) Can't even sell up and quit! :0)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Fischer View Post
    Hiyas

    Had similar problem with all new (but original slaves).

    Pertinent?? Was advised by older/elder brake person, they used to have rotating skimmer to pare the shoes down to the correct "round" diameter. All that stuff sort of disappeared over the years. Now one needs to "fit" in the "fitter" sense of the word, drum on tighten c/s screws and rotate, drum off, take down the high spots, same again and again and again until the drum rotates freely with all wound off and retaining screws and wheel nuts done up.

    Comment?
    My father-in-law worked in a brake company and they often used to set the backplate up in the lathe with the shoes fitted (and held firmly) then machine the linings to match the drum.

    Nowadays labour costs would make this expensive if you could even find anyone to do it.
    Yet another 'old-school' brake place near me closed earlier in the year.

    Most brake places now are used to fitting discs & pads and that's about it as the only drums on modern vehicles are for the handbrake which shouldn't wear. The only possibility is a one that deals with trucks.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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