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Thread: Distributor question

  1. #11
    cjc_td5's Avatar
    cjc_td5 is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfc View Post
    Little chance of rotating the alloy distributor housing it’s well seized to the block[on both blocks I have infact]
    Cheers mark
    Confirming you know that the distributor housing is fixed by a bolt behind the side tappet cover?
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86"
    1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
    1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)

  2. #12
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    Seized with the bolt out
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    I just went through this with a guy from the Rover Car Club but for him I had to pull out the distributer. I will try to get a photo sum time tomorrow for you. I see you say you can't turn the distributer , have you loosened the clamp at the base of the distributer & loosened the clamp securing bolt , then give it a good spray of wd40 & leave it sit for a couple of days
    Yea the dizzy rotates, it’s the drive housing that’s seized[alloy into block] however it has run like that in the past.l was thinking possibly it was not valve timed correctly when timing chain was changed....generally panicking once again as it goes how it’s set up.....just once the timings way off it’s a horror story till you can get it to run enough to tune
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  4. #14
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    On top of all this I’ve got td5 head bolts in the post ,just rebuilt clutch master, exhaust manifold and 4 months ago all rear suspension bushes[had a cracked a frame cross member on one side to
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  5. #15
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    DSCN4226_LI.jpg Ok , this distributor tube won't turn it is secured by a bolt behind the side rocker cover& is normally seized in the engine block & will quite often brake when trying to remove it . DSCN4227_LI.jpg The distributer body will turn in that tube but you will need to loosen the clamp bolt arrowed & the clamp securing bolt circled. you may need to take the clamp bolt out so you can spread the clamp a little ( MAKE SURE YOU DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THE CLAMP BOLT WHEN YOU TIGHTEN IT , JUST TIGHT ENOUGH TO STOP THE BODY FROM TURNINGOR YOU WILL CRUSH THE BODY ONTO THE SHAFT PUTTING LOAD ONTO THE DRIVE GEAR )
    Give the base of the distributer a good spray with some penetrating oil may be over a few days, then see if the body will turn . you may need to give the body a gentle tap to make it rotate but not too hard you don't want to break anything. I will get a photo of mine later today.
    If you have changed the timing chain there is a good chance you have got it wrong , Rover could have made it easer by putting a couple of dots to line up like most manufactures .

  6. #16
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    It is a little hard to get to the cat at the moment stuck in the back corner of shed & can not get to drivers side to look at timing marks on flywheel.This is what I have , the roter is pointing to no 1 with points open but should be good enough for you to check what you need to know. DSCN4228.jpgDSCN4231.jpgDSCN4232.jpg
    Hope this is of some help.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    It is a little hard to get to the cat at the moment stuck in the back corner of shed & can not get to drivers side to look at timing marks on flywheel.This is what I have , the roter is pointing to no 1 with points open but should be good enough for you to check what you need to know. DSCN4228.jpgDSCN4231.jpgDSCN4232.jpg
    Hope this is of some help.
    On mine no 1 lead is the first rear Lead looking from the passenger guard....if that engine has the same plug layout both my engines were 180 deg out.
    Ie my rotor points in the opposite direction....the first was how I brought it[same as second] after a lot of reading and AULRO/LRSOC research the one i fitted ended up the same...
    perhaps look at the lead that sparks when no1 exh and inlet valve fully closed?
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  8. #18
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    The thing that I can’t get my head around is that the only difference between running and not is that the dizzying been out.i cantfor the life of me understand how it could be so far from starting hen the only change has been that the dizzy came out for a had gasket....it’s even started since then ,though very poorly[no worse than a really badly adjusted ign system with worn parts]
    I’ve tryed URL down the carb and nothing more than a Choof out the carby
    I’m thinking come dark ,pull all the plugs, take of the rocker covers and see what lead is sparking with which cylinder when both valves are closed on it
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  9. #19
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    If you've got compression you don't have to remove the covers. Just remove the spark plugs and cover the #1 hole with your thumb while some one turns the engine with the starting handle. You can easily determine the compression stroke that way.
    .W.

  10. #20
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    Cool .although I’m alone atm so the covers come off.......I need new gaskets on them anyway.....I could get to cil 1 and 2 but legs and arms to short for the rear 2......that’s been part of the issue last week when it ran, it would stall out b4 I could get to the dizzy
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

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