What is a Big Nut Series 1?
Hi all,
I've noticed that the Big Nut Series 1 and Series 2 Brake Master cylinders appear visually identical and use the same internal repair kits.
Are there any technical reasons why I should not replace my old cylinder with a new Series 2 cylinder?
Many thanks
Jeff
What is a Big Nut Series 1?
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
The Series II has two mounting bolts and the Series I three mounting bolts so a bit of a problem fitting.....
There are kits available to use the Series II master cylinders, someone on here recently purchased a three bolt master cylinder but not sure where from.
Brake Master Cylinder and Conversion Kit
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
Thanks Colin,
So you are saying that the mounting is the only difference? If they are functionally the same, I'm sure I can make up an adaptor plate without spending $300.
regards Jeff
you can get them out of Belgium or could last time i was looking...
1998 Discovery 300TDi Manual SE7
1996 Discovery 300TDi Auto
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7TDCi
"Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
"If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
“What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
"The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius
The adaptor plate will move it back so you might need to make a longer push rod (assuming you have the push rod).
What's wrong with your master cylinder ? They can be re-sleeved although if cost is your main concern go with the Series II master cylinder.
I honed and re-sealed mine and 12 or so years later it's still working OK.
I sourced a 3-bolt master cylinder from India some time back, almost perfect except the connections for the brake tubes were drilled right through. This means fitting adaptors to terminate the tubes, from memory the adaptors were nearly as expensive as the master cylinder !
Interestingly I had purchased a master cylinder from Germany via Ebay, sold as suitable for a Minerva. Exactly the same Indian unit but far more expensive !
Be careful that cost cutting doesn't devalue the finished product.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
Jeff,
Before committing to a new master cylinder, dismantle and inspect the unit you have. A new set of seals and rubber boot might be all you need. The design is ingenious in that the piston doesn't run along the bottom of the cylinder, so avoiding pitting as a result of water absorbed into the fluid. In fact, the master cylinder can be drained in situ (thus removing any water) when doing a routine fluid renewal. Have a look at the "exploded view" in the workshop manual.
Cheers, Rob S
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