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Thread: When to take engine off the engine stand and install not chassis

  1. #1
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    When to take engine off the engine stand and install not chassis

    Gentlemen,
    MY apologies for what will be a really dumb question to some, but I am a virgin at this.

    I have been slowly building up the engine on an Super Cheap Auto's engine stand. All going well, but not sure when I should be planning to transfer the engine onto the chassis. The block without head, flywheel , ancillaries and transmission seems handleable with the equipment I have. So should I put the engine into the chassis and then fit the remaining parts without fear of breaking something along the way, or should I be fitting as much as I can to the engine while it is on the stand and then risk trying to manhandle a far heavier engine into the chassis with the fairly light weight gear I have?

    My preference is get it into the chassis while it is fairly light and then added the rest later. This then raises the question of the engine mounts. Is it OK to to put the engine in with only the engine mounts, and attached the transmission and its mounts later?
    IN other words, will the engine sit happily just on the front mounts alone or am I likely to damage something trying that?

    We took the engine out along with the transmission with most parts attached, but we had access to a fork Lift, which make life easy and safe. This time I don't have a fork lift and will be relying on a block and tackle. most likely alone.

    many thanks for any advice
    Jeff

  2. #2
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    When to take engine off the engine stand and install not chassis

    Gentlemen,
    MY apologies for what will be a really dumb question to some, but I am a virgin at this.

    I have been slowly building up the engine on an Super Cheap Auto's engine stand. All going well, but not sure when I should be planning to transfer the engine onto the chassis. The block without head, flywheel , ancillaries and transmission seems handleable with the equipment I have. So should I put the engine into the chassis and then fit the remaining parts without fear of breaking something along the way, or should I be fitting as much as I can to the engine while it is on the stand and then risk trying to manhandle a far heavier engine into the chassis with the fairly light-weight gear I have at home?

    My preference is get it into the chassis while it is fairly light and then mount the head, manifolds, alternator, starter etc, while it is in the car.
    However this raises another concern about the engine mounts. Is it OK to to put the engine in with only the front engine mounts, and attached the transmission with its mounts some time later?
    IN other words, will the engine sit happily just on the front pair of mounts alone or am I likely to damage something doing that?

    I had help getting the the engine out along with the transmission and most ancillary parts attached, but we had access to a fork Lift, which make life easy and safe. This time I don't have a fork lift and will be relying on a block and tackle, at home and most likely alone.

    many thanks for any advice
    regards
    Jeff

  3. #3
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    put a brace bar under the bell housing on the chassis or a chunk of 20mm timber.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    put a brace bar under the bell housing on the chassis or a chunk of 20mm timber.
    What he said.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
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  5. #5
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    A decent block and tackle should lift the whole thing no problems, as long as you have somewhere strong enough to support it from. I reckon it'd be so much easier and probably better to assemble the engine prior to installing it.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #6
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    You could put as much onto the engine then put it into the chassis , you can support the rear of the engine with some wooden blocks so not to put any strain on the mounts, then install the transmission later or hire an engine crane & install it the way you pulled it out. The latter would be my choice. The cost of hiring the engine crane would not be that much for a days hire, Don't quote me on that as I own my own engine lifter. It is entirely up to what you are comfortable with.
    If using the engine crane it will need to be on concrete floor not dirt so you can manoeuvre it.

  7. #7
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    Engine installation

    Quote Originally Posted by jedwards View Post
    Gentlemen,
    MY apologies for what will be a really dumb question to some, but I am a virgin at this.

    I have been slowly building up the engine on an Super Cheap Auto's engine stand. All going well, but not sure when I should be planning to transfer the engine onto the chassis. The block without head, flywheel , ancillaries and transmission seems handleable with the equipment I have. So should I put the engine into the chassis and then fit the remaining parts without fear of breaking something along the way, or should I be fitting as much as I can to the engine while it is on the stand and then risk trying to manhandle a far heavier engine into the chassis with the fairly light weight gear I have?

    My preference is get it into the chassis while it is fairly light and then added the rest later. This then raises the question of the engine mounts. Is it OK to to put the engine in with only the engine mounts, and attached the transmission and its mounts later?
    IN other words, will the engine sit happily just on the front mounts alone or am I likely to damage something trying that?

    We took the engine out along with the transmission with most parts attached, but we had access to a fork Lift, which make life easy and safe. This time I don't have a fork lift and will be relying on a block and tackle. most likely alone.

    many thanks for any advice
    Jeff
    Jeff,

    I find it a lot easier to bolt everything on while on the engine stand. You will find it a lot simpler to bolt on things like the inlet manifold , generator and oil filter out side of the engine bay. The only thing I would fit later would be the carbie and distributor cap, as they are both a bit delicate and it's very expensive for a DVXH4A 80" dizzie cap. A solid block of wood under the flywheel housing will chock it it up until you mate it with the tranny. I would be inclined to leave it on the engine stand until I was ready to fit the clutch etc., and mate it up with the installed tranny.
    You can probably see a faint glimmer at the end of the tunnel by now!
    Mike, 5380

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5380 View Post
    Jeff,

    I find it a lot easier to bolt everything on while on the engine stand. You will find it a lot simpler to bolt on things like the inlet manifold , generator and oil filter out side of the engine bay. The only thing I would fit later would be the carbie and distributor cap, as they are both a bit delicate and it's very expensive for a DVXH4A 80" dizzie cap. A solid block of wood under the flywheel housing will chock it it up until you mate it with the tranny. I would be inclined to leave it on the engine stand until I was ready to fit the clutch etc., and mate it up with the installed tranny.
    You can probably see a faint glimmer at the end of the tunnel by now!
    Mike, 5380
    Exactly.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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