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Thread: Series 1 80" steering geometry setup help.

  1. #1
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    Series 1 80" steering geometry setup help.

    Gentlemen,
    I need to set up my steering as I have had everything apart, as part of the restoration, but cannot find the correct length that the Longitudinal steering tube, drag link and Track Rod need to be set to.
    I'm using the Series 1 48-58 Work Shop Manual (Edition4291) but can find no referent to this critical information in Section G Steering Unit and Linkage (all models) .

    Is it somewhere else in the workshop manual?

    Many thanks
    Jeff

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The track rod is set to give the required amount of toe in, there is no specified length, and it cannot be set without the complete running gear being assembled. Similarly, the drag ink to the relay is set so that the arm on the relay is pointing straight ahead when the wheels are straight. The exact length depends on the spring height and probably variations in exact chassis dimensions! (And similarly should not be set without the engine and other weight installed.)
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    That information us really helpful, many thanks John.

    What are the "rules" for the Longitudinal steering tube? I assume it's length will determine the lock and alignment as well.

    regards
    jeff

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    cjc_td5 is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Hi mate.
    I don't know if there are any set up guidelines, but this is how I would do it...

    The track rod sets wheel toe-in/toe-out.
    Set your steering box to mid-way on its travel and install the output pitman arm to point straight down.
    Set your top relay pitman arm pointing east-west and adjust your longitudinal arm to fit these arms.
    Install your relay bottom pitman arm pointing straight forward, and install your drop arm to fit the length between this arm and the track rod.
    Play with moving arms on splines if you cannot get full steering movement between steering stops, or to centre your steering movements.

    That's how I would attack it anyway.
    Chris
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86"
    1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
    1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)

  5. #5
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    Many thanks Chris,
    I greatly appreciate the effort you went to help me with this.
    All perfectly clear now, thanks.

    regards
    Jeff
    Perth, Western Australia

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    I found this in a LR S3 Salesman Manual I have steering..jpg Should be the same except for the damper.
    Set steering box in centre position with pitman arm straight down , set relays in these positions & adjust track rods so tie rod drop into the holes The one between the hubs you adjust to correct toe in .

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    I would point out that my S1 manual shows the top and bottom arms on the relay one spline off a right angle (bottom to the left on RHD with the top lever straight across). I have never seen an explanation for this (later models are right angles), but I suspect it is to avoid the steering box pitman arm hitting the firewall or something similar. Presumably later models changed positions etc slightly.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I would point out that my S1 manual shows the top and bottom arms on the relay one spline off a right angle (bottom to the left on RHD with the top lever straight across). I have never seen an explanation for this (later models are right angles), but I suspect it is to avoid the steering box pitman arm hitting the firewall or something similar. Presumably later models changed positions etc slightly.

    John,

    You hit the nail on the head. I recently did a copmlete steering system overhaul my 80". From memory, the relay arms had to be one spline away from 90 degrees to get the geometry correct in both directions travel wise. 5380

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