Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Minimum Electrics to Start Engine

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    299
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Minimum Electrics to Start Engine

    Gentlemen,
    I am keen to start my rebuilt engine, now that it is installed in the chassis, so was considering what the minimum electrics would be to allow this, without having to install the full harness.

    I have sketched out a rough circuit diagram, but have I missed anything critical? My vehicle is negative Earth and equipped with a Hall effect Electronic ignition rather than points. I have not drawn the HT leads and start plugs, as I felt that was fairly obvious.

    I have tested the Starter, and am using a new Starter Solenoid, but everything else was working fine prior to the rebuild.

    regards
    Jeff in Perth
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Yarra Valley, Victoria
    Posts
    96
    Total Downloaded
    0

    circuit diagram

    Quote Originally Posted by jedwards View Post
    Gentlemen,
    I am keen to start my rebuilt engine, now that it is installed in the chassis, so was considering what the minimum electrics would be to allow this, without having to install the full harness.

    I have sketched out a rough circuit diagram, but have I missed anything critical? My vehicle is negative Earth and equipped with a Hall effect Electronic ignition rather than points. I have not drawn the HT leads and start plugs, as I felt that was fairly obvious.

    I have tested the Starter, and am using a new Starter Solenoid, but everything else was working fine prior to the rebuild.

    regards
    Jeff in Perth
    Hello Jeff,
    You will need to move the position of the "on/off" (ignition switch) to between the battery Pos terminal and the fuel pump so that when the switch is open (off) the fuel pump, oil pressure warning light and ignition system are isolated.
    Cheers, Rob S

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    28,805
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Strictly speaking, all you need to start it is a wire from the battery to the coil and fuel pump, and high and low tension leads from the coil to the battery, plus a crank handle.

    It is preferable to have the oil pressure light with one wire to the battery and the other to the oil pressure sender if you are running it for more than a few moments, and if you want to get fancy, a switch connecting all of these to the battery.

    You may want to run a starter, in which case you need to connect the starter as you show. Series 1 does not have a starter solenoid as delivered, but I assume you have a reason for this modification.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    299
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi John,
    My vehicle came to me with a Starter Solenoid. I was not aware that the S1 did not originally come with a Solenoid, which explains why they do not show in most circuit diagrams.

    I'll fit a nice new one just for longevity reasons as the Lucas combination ignition/ Light switch is a costly part to run cranking current through.


    regards and thanks
    Jeff

  5. #5
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    28,805
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by jedwards View Post
    Hi John,
    My vehicle came to me with a Starter Solenoid. I was not aware that the S1 did not originally come with a Solenoid, which explains why they do not show in most circuit diagrams.

    I'll fit a nice new one just for longevity reasons as the Lucas combination ignition/ Light switch is a costly part to run cranking current through.


    regards and thanks
    Jeff
    Series 1, 2, and 2a up to 1967 had a separate starter switch which was a foot or hand operated plunger on the firewall in front of the gearlever*. They also used a combination light and ignition switch. After 1967 Series Landrovers had a starter solenoid and a combined ignition/start key and toggle light switch.

    *Diesels used a combination services/heater plug/ start switch from the outset, up to 1967, a high current one to carry heater plug current. Up to 1967 a simple rotary light switch was also used up to then. After 1967 switches were the same for petrol and diesel.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!