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Thread: High Torque Starter to fit Series 1, 2 litre Petrol?

  1. #1
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    High Torque Starter to fit Series 1, 2 litre Petrol?

    HI Gents,
    Issues seem to be compounding for me at the moment.
    My Starter was unresponsive this afternoon, so hauled it out and bench tested it. Seems very weak, so stripped it down, and found that the commentator was badly worn and the bushes were half round on the end, due to age. To repair will take time and cost around $300 + , I guess, so very interested to know if anyone has successfully fitted a modern style High Torque Starter.
    There seem to be lots offered for Series 2 and Series 3, but only a few for our Series 1 from suppliers in the UK at quite eye watering prices.
    Apparently the issue is clearance with the Oil pipe to the head and sump.

    If anyone knows a local suppliers who offers one that fits S1, at a sensible price, I'd love to know.

    thanks in advance,
    regards
    Jeff in Perth

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    When my brother was racing his Mk7 Jaguar he fitted a Hi Torque starter , had lots of problems with contacts in the solenoid , kept burning the contacts our & usually meant having to replace the whole starter. The car was only raced once a month doing four races in a weekend so starter didn't do much work . He fitted at least 3 new ones over 7 years. I have a friend who works in auto electrical industry he tells me the solenoid is there main failing.

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    The critical failure on these starters is usually the armature touching the field poles due to wear on the bushes. If this is the case, it can probably be revived by simply replacing these bushes or even just the pinion end one which is likely to be the most worn. This should be cheap and quick, and new brushes could be fitted at the same time. You can tell just by looking at the armature if it has been touching the poles.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    If the commutator is not too badly worn then it just needs skimming on a lathe.
    The mica separators should then be undercut.
    I doubt too many auto elecs would undertake this sort of work nowadays, look for a long established (old) auto electrical company.

    As John mentioned, if the bush is badly worn the armature touches the field coils and either stops or it's turning force is significantly reduced.

    I'd be getting the original starter repaired if possible.

    If not, google comes up with this in the US, there must be UK suppliers.
    Land Rover Series One - High Torque Starter – Classic Car Performance



    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  5. #5
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    Hi Colin,

    The type of High Torque Starter you found in the US on Google, has on board Solenoid, but you can by-pass this and use an external or remote Solenoid at any time, using the small cable provided.
    Land Rover Series One - High Torque Starter – Classic Car Performance

    I believe that solves the issues that John was referring to. I've used these Gear Reduction starters on my last three restorations without trouble, and alway founds them to be really good. I was just a bit concerned about not, so the purpose of my post, was to see if anyone had successfully installed one of these in a Series 1.

    I do plan to install a new starter of one type or another, to keep the restoration moving along, but when time allows, I will try to refurbish the old original as a spare.


    regards
    Jeff

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jedwards View Post
    Hi Colin,

    The type of High Torque Starter you found in the US on Google, has on board Solenoid, but you can by-pass this and use an external or remote Solenoid at any time, using the small cable provided.
    Land Rover Series One - High Torque Starter – Classic Car Performance

    I believe that solves the issues that John was referring to. I've used these Gear Reduction starters on my last three restorations without trouble, and alway founds them to be really good. I was just a bit concerned about not, so the purpose of my post, was to see if anyone had successfully installed one of these in a Series 1.

    I do plan to install a new starter of one type or another, to keep the restoration moving along, but when time allows, I will try to refurbish the old original as a spare.


    regards
    Jeff
    Probably not something most Series I owners would fit as the emphasis is usually on originality.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  7. #7
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    I put a high torque starter on my series 3 a few weeks ago. it starts better and drags a lot less power from the battery.

    I have ordered a second one for a 2A. The old starters are good while they work but they are getting a bit old nowadays and if reliability is required fit a new starter.

    Ian
    Bittern

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    The starter on my 2a has given zero trouble in the thirty years I have owned it. The only issues have been that I have had to replace the solenoid. On the other hand, most starting issues have been battery or more commonly generator/alternator.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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